Category Archives: National Parks

When East Met West: A Traveler’s Guide to Golden Spike National Historic Park

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Photo by S. Resendez

America was moving west and it wasn’t an easy trek. As settlers began making their way into and across the United States, there was a push to move westward in the 1800’s. Gold had been discovered, Spaniards were making inroads and discovering land and an abundance of natural resources. Places like Fort Davis were providing a safe respite from the wild west but it was taking time for get from one end of the country to the other. Wagon routes and months-long sea voyages were slowing progress. Many leaders—businessmen, politicians, and military planners—began calling for a faster, safer way to connect the nation, a nation dreaming of speed and connection.

But the idea stalled for years because Congress couldn’t agree on where the route should run. Northern states pushed for a northern path; Southern states demanded a southern one. The political deadlock broke only after the Civil War began, when Southern representatives (who preferred a southern route) withdrew from Congress. Suddenly, the northern-backed plan had a clear path forward.

In 1862, President Abraham Lincoln signed the Pacific Railway Act, officially launching the transcontinental railroad. The government supported it with land grants and loans, while two companies—the Union Pacific (building west from Omaha) and the Central Pacific (building east from Sacramento)—took on the construction. Their lines met in 1869 at Promontory Summit, Utah, forever transforming travel, trade, and the American West.

 On May 10, 1869, officials from the Central Pacific Railroad and the Union Pacific Railroad met at PromontorySummit, in Box Elder County, Utah, to drive the final, ceremonial spikes, linking the eastern and western United States by rail. In 1965, the site of the last spike on the transcontinental railroad was designated a National Historic Site. In March of 2019, the park’s designation was changed from a historic site to a historic park, just in time to for the commemoration on May 10, 2019, as America celebrated the 150th anniversary of the completion of the First Transcontinental Railroad and recognizing the historic site as the Golden Spike National Historical Park.

Photo by S. Resendez

While connecting the railways was indeed a giant leap forward for the United States, it should be noted that these strides were made on the backs of several groups of people. Native Americans were already settled in the west and the construction of the railroad caused the people from 15 tribal nations to watch their homes and livelihood be destroyed with the advancement of the railroad. Irish immigrants, who came seeking work during potato famine in the mid-1800’s, were instrumental in helping build the railroad despite religious discrimination and.a language barrier. And Chinese immigrants, who were reluctantly hired after a critical shortage of labor was created due to gold strikes, were responsible for a great majority of the hardest labor that went into building the transcontinental railway. Chinese workers were often given tasked with working in the most dangerous conditions. Tunnels in the Sierra Nevada Mountains that had to be bored into solid granite for the railroad, rockslides, explosions, exposure, avalanches, and violent clashes claimed the lives of many of the Chinese workers. It is estimated that over one thousand Chinese laborers died building the CPRR. At the 1869 Golden Spike ceremony, not a single Chinese laborer was invited or mentioned, despite their indispensable role.

Central Pacific Railroad Jupiter
Photo courtesy NPS

Today, Golden Spike National Historical Park offers a variety of things to do during your visit. Commemorative events, seasonal events, nature, and hiking are all available at this park. There are approximately 55,000 visitors a year and the visitor’s center is open seasonally, at various hours. Please check the website for specific information before your visit. The physical address is 6200 North 22300 West, Promontory, Utah. It is approximately 30 miles west of Brigham City. The park is 2,735 acres of land surrounding a 15 mile stretch of the original Transcontinental Railroad. There is only one paved road coming in to the visitor’s center.

MILE MARKER: Did you know that the famous golden spike wasn’t hammered into place at all—it was gently tapped, lifted back out, and sent home, while the real work of joining the rails happened quietly behind the scenes.

HIKE IT!: There is a 1.5 mile trail called the Big Fill Loop Trail. It provides a beautiful view of the Promontory Mountains, the Great Salt Lake, and the Wasatch Front. Visitors can walk along the original grades of the Central Pacific and Union Pacific railroads and still see drill marks from the tools used to create the tracks.

Wander the Petrified Wild at Petrified Forest National Park

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Photo by S. Resendez

Imagine yourself in some open grasslands…the weather is humid and rainy. You can see that there’s a lush, beautiful forest nearby and in the river, there are large, expansive, trees growing in and around the river bottoms. The land is verdant and green. You’re actually standing in a flood plain. There are animals like wooly mammoth and giant bison roaming the area. This is the supercontinent Pangaea during the Late Triassic Epoch, over 225 million years ago. What we now recognize as the southwestern part of the United States.

Photo by S. Resendez

Over millions of years, as the continents moved, the land tilted and uplifted, and the climate changed significantly, transforming the environment from a tropical basin to an arid plateau. The trees in that forest eventually fell and became buried in the biorich sediment where mineral-rich water replaced the tree’s organic structure with minerals, and turned them into petrified logs. The gradual uplifting of the land (starting about 60 million years ago) created stress that caused the brittle, crystal-filled logs to fracture like glass rods, creating the segmented appearance. Continual erosion from wind and water eventually exposed the fossils and sculpted the surrounding badlands and colorful Painted Desert formations, revealing the landscape we see today.

The Paleoindian people lived in, and around, the area of the petrified forest and as the climate and environment changed, began to settle the area as evidenced by the pithouses that were built into the land to mark the need for more permanent housing. By this time, the geographical area resembled what we recognize today as the Southwest. By the 1500’s, Spanish explorers began making inroads in search of routes along the Rio Grande and the Pacific Coast. After becoming a part of the U.S. territories in the 1800’s, the army continued to seek routes to the Pacific coastline and in doing so, came across what would eventually become the Petrified Forest National Park.

The Petrified Forest is located within the greater Painted Desert. A variety of animals call this area of the U.S. home, including amphibians such as salamanders and toads; birds; insects; mammals such as fox, coyote, deer, and rabbits; and reptiles like lizards, skinks, horned toads, and snakes. There are also several hundred species of plants and trees throughout the park. Research and dig sites are a constant in the Petrified Forest as scientists continue to learn and provide scientific information about the park to park visitors. This park is best known for its Triassic fossils.

Petrified Forest National Park is open year round except for Thanksgiving and Christmas. Painted Desert Visitor Center and Rainbow Forest Museum & Visitor Center hours are from 8am to 5pm and the Painted Desert Inn National Historic Landmark Hours are from 9am to 4pm. Note: Arizona does not observe Daylight Saving Time, remaining on Mountain Standard Time year-round. For example, in the summer months, during Daylight Saving Time, the time in Arizona and California is the same, with New Mexico and the Navajo Reservation one hour ahead. As usual, always make sure you check ahead in regards to weather and possible closures. This is a pet friendly park!!! Dogs (on leash) are allowed on the trails and there’s even a dog park available. Stop by one of the Visitor Centers and get a BARK Ranger certificate for your furry friend!

Photo by S. Resendez

You can drive through the park in about an hour BUT there are plenty of short hikes that will allow you to see ancient villages, petroglyphs, giant logs, and petrified wood. This is the perfect park to see a lot with minimal physical investment.

MILE MARKER: Did you know Petrified Forest protects one of the richest Triassic fossil sites on Earth—not just fossilized trees, but early dinosaurs and evidence of some of the planet’s oldest wildfires? This park is far more alive than it looks!

HIKE IT!: There are several hiking trails of short to medium length available to hike in the Petrified Forest. The website’s trails page does a fantastic job of describing the trails and in giving you excellent insight into grades, cross slopes, and trial widths. Click on the link for the details.


Redwood National Forest: Secrets of the Tallest Trees on Earth

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Image courtesy of NPS

When people think of the Redwood National Forest, the first thing that comes to mind is the trees. Redwood National Forest is home to some of the tallest trees on earth, but the landscapes in and around the forest consist of more than just giant trees. Oak woodlands, rivers, prairies, and coastline make up the surrounding landscape. But we get it; you go for the trees. We all go for the trees…but there’s so much more!

Redwood National and State Parks is unique because the National Park Service (federal) and California State Parks (state) jointly manage the parks. Approximately 55% of the park is under federal management: the federal government, through the National Park Service (NPS), owns and manages a portion of the parkland, which was initially designated as Redwood National Park in 1968. The remaining 45% of the park is managed by the state of California, through California State Parks. California owns and manages the land in three separate state parks that are part of the larger, cooperatively managed unit: Del Norte Coast Redwoods State Park, Jedediah Smith Redwoods State Park, and Prairie Creek Redwoods State Park. In 1994, the NPS and California State Parks formed a cooperative management agreement to manage the parks as a single unit, maximizing resource protection.

Sea Star on Rock Photo courtesy of NPS

The abundance of ecological diversity in the Redwood Forest led to it being designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1980. The diverse species of animals range from birds, land mammals, marine mammals, fish, and tide pool creatures such as sea stars and sea anemones. The Redwood Forest is also home to several threatened and endangered species such as the Northern Spotted Owl and the Steller Sea Lion. Redwood National and State Parks work hard to preserve, monitor, and safeguard fish and wildlife habitats to support recovery.

Redwood National Park is a total of 139,000 acres, or about 217 square miles, when combined with the three state parks (Jedediah Smith, Del Norte Coast, and Prairie Creek). Without the state parks, the national park itself is 131,983 acres, or 206 square miles, which includes about 40,000 acres of old-growth forest. The entire park extends for 35-60 miles along the northern California coastline.

Redwood National Forest Coastline Photo by S. Resendez

The Redwood National and State Park(s) is open year round but the Visitor’s Centers operate on a seasonal schedule. Check the website for information on hours and times. Cell service is limited and while GPS works, it often offers confusing directions. plan ahead by:

  • Carrying a physical map, especially if venturing into remote areas.
  • Using official park maps, available at visitor centers and on the park’s website.
  • Using road signs within the park rather than GPS apps, which may misdirect you.

It’s also a good idea to check conditions before heading out because heavy fog might prevent you from seeing some of the sights you’re planning to visit. Luckily, the NPS site has a page made just to let you know what current conditions are at the park at all times. Check that page right before you head out for alerts, road closures, and trail information.

MILE MARKER: Did you know the redwoods in California’s Redwood National and State Parks are not just the tallest trees on Earth — they’re weather-makers too? These ancient giants capture fog from the Pacific, absorbing moisture through their needles and creating their own microclimate. It’s a self-sustaining forest, where the trees literally drink from the clouds.

Hiking Trail in the Redwood Forest Photo by S. Resendez

HIKE IT!: Once again, the National Park Service website for The Redwood National Forest and State Parks has done an excellent job helping you to plan your best hike. Their web page breaks down hikes by time and region. From short walks to all-day hikes, they’ve got you covered. Make sure you check out the current conditions page before you head out, then get your sticks and go!

Hiking the History and Culture of Acadia National Park

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Photo by S. Resendez

The trails in Acadia National Park tell a story carved by ancient glaciers and by the hands and hearts of the people who have called this place home. Long before it became a hiker’s paradise, Mount Desert Island was the ancestral homeland of the Wabanaki people, who paddled the rocky shores and named the mountains and waters that still define Acadia’s wild beauty. Later came the “rusticators” — artists, writers, and dreamers of the 19th century — who found inspiration in its rugged cliffs and helped spark a movement to protect it.

Before it became known as Acadia, this park had many names…Pemetic, Sieur de Monts, and Lafayette. The area in, and around, Arcadia, began colonization in the late 1700’s. By the early 1800’s, farming, foresting, fishing, and shipbuilding became the major occupations. Hundreds of acres of trees were deforested to make wood products. Farmers began growing crops like wheat, rye, corn, and potatoes. By the mid-1800’s, fishermen and sailors focused on creating a life on the sea. And word got around about the natural beauty of the area, so tourism also became a part of early life in Acadia.

Photo by S. Resendez

Charles W. Eliot, George B. Dorr, and John D. Rockefeller presented 5,000 acres to the American people in the form of a national monument, which was signed into effect by President Woodrow Wilson. At the time, the park was under the name, Sieur de Monts. More property was donated by wealthy patrons, many of them affluent women, and efforts continued to obtain full national park status. In 1919, President Wilson signed the act establishing Lafayette National Park and Dorr became the first park superintendent. In 1929, congress authorized the National Park Service to accept a donation of land on the Schoodic Peninsula and that was when the park’s current name, Acadia National Park, was adopted.

Photo by S. Resendez

Acadia National Park preserves approximately 50,000 acres in Maine. Ecosystems contained within Acadia include mountains, shorelines, forests, lakes and ponds, steams and watersheds, marshes, swamps, and wetlands. It boasts. more than 1,100 plant species and diverse wildlife from microorganisms and larger animals. It is currently, as of this writing, the 10th most visited national park.

Acadia National Park is usually open 24 hours a day but check the website for specific information regarding operating hours for the visitor’s center. Summer is the busy season but it’s always good to plan in advance because you never know when things might change. Acadia is a huge park and while there are many areas that are accessible to people with disabilities, there are also many areas that are not accessible. The best way to check is to go directly to their accessibility page for specific information.

Photo by S. Resendez

MILE MARKER: Did you know that Acadia National Park was the first national park created entirely from private land donations? Also, Acadia’s famous carriage roads were built by John D. Rockefeller Jr., not for cars, but as a refuge from them. He even designed the roads and bridges to blend naturally into the landscape, using local granite and hand-carved details.

HIKE IT!: There are SO MANY hikes in Acadia, there’s not enough room to list them here. It’s a good thing that Acadia’s NPS website has a whole page that sorts all the hikes for you! Find your favorite hiking trail by location, by environment, by route, or by public transportation. Look here for links that will take you straight to the information you need to hike your hike.

Hiking in Yosemite National Park: Easy Trails and Epic Views

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Photo by S. Resendez

In the mid-1800’s, California was the place to be. Gold had been discovered. The race was on to get the gold and nothing would stand in the way of the prospectors looking to get rich. As is usually the case, there were some obstacles in the way, namely people.

Bridal Veil Falls Photo by S. Resendez

The Indigenous people of Yosemite Valley called the valley “Ahwahnee” or “gaping mouth-like place”. The Ahwahnee lived in the area for thousands of years, developing a deep, reciprocal relationship with the land, but were eventually devastated by illness and displaced by settlers and park officials. In the end, the Mariposa Battalion, a Euro-American militia entered the area and drove the native Ahwahneechee people onto reservations,

As more people made their way into California, specifically Yosemite Valley, hotels, inns, and stagecoach companies began catering to the early tourists. In 1864, Yosemite was recognized by the federal government as someplace that should be protected. Abraham Lincoln signed the Yosemite Grant, placing Yosemite under the protection of the state of California.

President Teddy Roosevelt and John Muir standing on rock at Glacier Point, Yosemite, May 1903; Yosemite Falls and cliffs of Yosemite Valley in distance. Photo courtesy NPS [RL012904]

In 1903, President Theodore Roosevelt visited Yosemite and guided by naturalist John Muir, spent three nights camping in the Mariposa Grove and later, in a snowstorm near Sentinel Dome, then finally in a meadow near the base of Bridalveil Falls. This stay led Roosevelt to expand federal protection of Yosemite, and it inspired him to sign into existence 5 national parks, 18 national monuments, 55 national bird sanctuaries and wildlife refuges, and 150 national forests.

Yosemite National Park is open 24 hours per day, 365 days per year. The Hetch Hetchy area is only open from sunrise to sunset (except for permitted backpackers). There are other park entrances but check the website to see whether or not they are open. All day visitors must exit Hetch Hetchy by sunset. The road is also closed to all vehicles (including backpackers) from sunset to sunrise. Yosemite National Park covers nearly 1,200 square miles (3,100 square km) in the Sierra Nevada, with elevations ranging from about 2,000 feet (600 m) to 13,000 ft. The welcome center is located next to the Yosemite Village Parking and the Village Store in Yosemite Valley. Get help planning your visit and pick up free trail maps, junior ranger booklets, and more at the welcome center. Hours are 9:00 AM–5:00 PM and the Village is open year-round.

El Capitan Photo by S. Resendez

Things to do are numerous but if you’re visiting during the busy season, you need to make sure you plan ahead. Planning your visit will help to make sure you’re able to see everything you want to see while you’re there.

MILE MARKER: Did you know that some of the Buffalo Soldiers that were stationed at Fort Davis were stationed to park protection duties? After their frontier service, many Buffalo Soldiers were assigned to protect the newly formed national parks, including Yosemite. Between 1891 and 1913, soldiers from the 9th and 24th Cavalry, among others, served as the official administrators and park rangers in Yosemite.

HIKE IT!: There are a million things to do in Yosemite but hiking is the penultimate experience here. In and around Yosemite Valley, there are several day hikes rated easy to moderate that range from 0.5 miles all the way to 13 miles. There are also some shorter, more moderate hikes, that have elevation but if you plan ahead, you can check out the information and get yourself on a trail that suits your abilities. If you’re looking for trails outside of Yosemite Valley, check out Yosemite’s page all about the hiking trails. You’re sure to find something that suits your hiking style.

Photo by S. Resendez

Glacier Bay National Park & Preserve: Where Glaciers, Culture, and Wildlife Collide

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Photo by S. Resendez

Glacier Bay National Park and Preserve is more than a stunning wilderness—it’s a living story of ice, culture, and resilience. Once completely covered by massive glaciers, this area is still reshaping itself, revealing dramatic fjords and thriving ecosystems. Home to Tlingit heritage sites, soaring mountains, and wildlife from bears to humpback whales, Glacier Bay invites you to explore its past while experiencing its raw, untamed beauty.

Photo by S. Resendez

The time when the gradual shifting of glaciers began is now referred to as “The Little Ice Age”. It lasted for approximately 550 years and in addition to the extreme cold, there were periods of extreme climate fluctuation that made it difficult for any human beings to survive and thrive. Food scarcity and famine, disease and unrest, plagued the native populations and for at least the last 100 years into the late 1800’s and early 1900’s, the Tlingit people were forced to gradually move off their ancestral lands.

But the shifting of the glaciers also brought out the mysteries of the land and suddenly, a new ecosystem was created which brought attention to the area in and around what we now call Glacier Bay. In 1925, when Glacier Bay became a National Monument, the land in and around Glacier Bay was the ancestral home to the four clans of the Huna (Hoonah) Łingít. In its attempt to preserve and conserve the natural beauty at Glacier Bay, the National Park Service (NPS) fostered new federal laws that severely impacted the lives of the indigenous people. Where they were once free to hunt, fish, and forage the land, new restrictions now curtailed, if not outright prohibited, the Huna Łingít’s ability to live freely on land that was once an integral part of their everyday lives.

Photo by S. Resendez

In December of 1980, President Jimmy Carter signed the Alaska National Interest Lands Conservation Act that created Glacier Bay National Park and Preserve. After becoming a national park, the National Park Service and Hoonah Indian Association, began working together to reestablish and reinvigorate traditional and cultural activities. There remains a concerted effort to collect and preserve oral history amongst the Hoonah. And on the shores of Bartlett Cove, a cooperative venture led to the first tribal house to honor the Glacier Bay since Łingít villages were destroyed by the moving glacier 250 years ago. The Huna Ancestor’s House is open to park visitors and provides opportunities to learn about Huna Łingít history, culture, and their ancestral way of life.

Accessibility: Bartlett Cove has a few short trails, a public dock, campground, Glacier Bay Lodge with the Park Visitor Center on the second level, and the Visitor Information Station. These paths are not paved, and may have exposed roots and rocks. The Tlingit Trail provides a wheelchair accessible gravel path between the public dock parking area and the front of the Huna Tribal House. While navigable by many new wheelchairs, not all trails meet ADA standards. There is also a beautiful wooden boardwalk that provides access to a viewing deck overlooking a serene pond. This 1/2-mile section of the Forest Trail is accessible and easy to negotiate. For more detailed information about accessibility, visit the Glacier Bay National Park and Preserve website.

MILE MARKER: When Captain George Vancouver sailed by in 1794, he didn’t discover Glacier Bay as we know it — because it was completely covered by ice. A single glacier more than 100 miles long and 4,000 feet thick filled the entire bay. By the late 1800s, the ice had already retreated over 30 miles, revealing the stunning fjords and waterways we see today.

HIKE IT!:Several hiking trails are available to hike during your visit to Glacier Bay. You can view, or print, Bartlett Cove Trails Map for a simple visual of the shorter hiking trails. You can also visit the hiking page at the Glacier Bay NPS site. The best known hike at Glacier Bay would probably be the Forest Trail. It’s a 1 mile loop trail that’s rated as easy. The terrain is mostly flat and trail surface varies between dirt, gravel and boardwalk. There are benches and viewing platforms so factor in time to have a seat and enjoy nature. There is also a ranger led guided walk along this trail every afternoon.

Hiking Forest Trail GBNP Photo by S. Resendez

Harpers Ferry: The Spark That Lit the Civil War

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View of the Shenandoah River from the Murphy-Chambers Farm Overlook. Photo courtesy of NPS/Autumn Cook

Near the area where the Potomac and Shenandoah rivers meet, a group of nineteen men, led by Captain John Brown, invaded the arsenal at Harpers Ferry. The group then took several of the residents of the surrounding neighborhood as prisoners, while emancipating several slaves, and held off United States troops, under the command of Colonel Robert E. Lee, for almost 30 hours, before finally being captured, wounded, or killed. Captain John Brown was captured, tried, convicted, and executed for high treason and inciting slaves to insurrection. While this endeavor appears to have been a failure, the actions of the Captain and the men who accompanied him helped to launch the United States into the Civil War.

Captain John Brown Photo by S. Resendez

Because Harpers Ferry was chosen by George Washington to be the location of the 2nd national armory in the US at that time, Harpers Ferry was a prime spot for a faction to seize control. Between 1861 and 1865, the town of Harpers Ferry changed hands eight times. Strategically located at the confluence of two rivers and two railway lines, the arsenal at Harpers Ferry and its strategic location made it a hotbed of invasion and occupation that continued throughout the Civil War. In October of 1867, after the Civil War, Storer College was founded. It became the first higher education institution in West Virginia open to African Americans.

From 1909-1968, John Brown Fort stood on the site of Storer College on Camp Hill in Harpers Ferry. In this circa 1915 photograph, Storer College students, faculty members, and their families pose in front of the fort during an evening choral session. Year: 1915. Image Credit: Historic Photo Collection, Harpers Ferry NHP.

African American families continue to maintain their deep connections to the area in and around Harpers Ferry and today, more than 250 years after the first family settled the area, Jefferson County still boasts the longest established African American community in the state of Virginia.

In 1944, Harpers Ferry National Monument was authorized by Congress and in 1963, the park was renamed Harpers Ferry National Historical Park. Today, Harpers Ferry is not only a significant historical site, it also boasts a wide and varied ecosystem that encompasses a deciduous forest, flood plains, mountains, rivers, streams, wetlands, marshes, and swamps. “The park is home to approximately 14 amphibian,18 reptile, 36 mammal, 30 spider, 43 fish, 174 bird, and 276 insect species.”

Harpers Ferry National Historical Park is open year round with the exception of Thanksgiving Day, December 25, and January 1. The Visitor Center is located at 171 Shoreline Drive, Harpers Ferry, WV 25425 and is open daily from 9a to 5p. Shuttle buses run every day the park is open, every 10-15 minutes. Park museums/exhibits and restrooms in the historic Lower Town are open daily from 9 a to 5 p. Hours change seasonally so make sure you visit the website or call for the most up to date information.

Accessibility: The park has two wheelchairs available that may be borrowed by visitors upon request. The park’s shuttle buses are equipped for those with physical limitations. The buses kneel and have lifts to accommodate those who are unable to utilize the stairs. For more details on accessibility for physical, hearing loss, low vision/blindness, please check the website.

MILE MARKER:  Harpers Ferry is an anchor point on the Lewis & Clark National Historical Trail. It served as the starting point for the Corps of Discovery’s journey westward on the Lewis & Clark Expedition in 1803.

HIKE IT!: There are several trails with varying levels of length and difficulty ranging from 1 mile to 6.5 miles long. Be sure to check out the hiking page of the Harpers Ferry NPS website for detailed information on the hikes and the Appalachian Trail!

Loudoun Heights Trail in the fall Photo courtesy NPS / Volunteer Devin Taggart

Camino Real de los Tejas National Historic Trail: The Royal Road of Texas

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We’re covering new ground today as this is our first time exploring an NPS National Historic Trail. Based on the NPS definition of what denotes a National Historic Trail, we learn that a National Historic Trail is a “long-distance route that follows and commemorates a historic path of travel that changed the history and character of the U.S.” Today these routes offer opportunities to visit surviving sites, trail segments, and defining places of history as we learn about the diverse stories they tell. According to the NPS site, there are currently 19 trails that range from 16 miles long to a little over 5,000 miles long. For more information about all the trails, click on the link here.

Map courtesy of NPS

Beginning in Mexico City and winding its way through Texas and up into Louisiana, the Camino Real de Los Tejas covers approximately 2,600 miles. This isn’t a “hikeable” trail by definition, rather it should be considered as a chance to follow the historical footsteps of the people who traveled across countries and through inhospitable lands to begin settling the areas we now recognize as Texas and Louisiana.

Spanish Missions in Texas Photo by M. Gonzalez

Because we’re writing this from our home base in San Antonio, it’s easy to talk about where the trail leads us from here, but before it got to San Antonio, the trail meandered up from Coahuila, Mexico, near the Rio Grande, to Laredo, Texas, in and around Goliad, Texas (where the Camino Real de Los Tejas museum is located), and up through Victoria and Cuero. From here, the trail veers back towards San Antonio, or continues on to Bryan, Texas. There are also documented starting points, once the border was crossed, in Eagle Pass up to San Antonio. From San Antonio, the road continued on through New Braunfels (which later became a German settlement), up to San Marcos, to Austin or towards Bastrop (home of the Lost Piney Woods). From there, the branches seemed to gather near Crockett and continue on towards Nacogdoches and on towards Louisiana. The Camino Real de Los Tejas split or combined according to the seasons. If the weather affected the planned route, the way could be rerouted to avoid flooded areas or other hazards along the way.

There are several missions along this corridor, some missions having been moved from other areas closer to the Gulf of Mexico, and rebuilt to follow the San Antonio River, going east towards Louisiana or west towards California. In this part of Texas, the most famous missions in and around this area are, arguably, the San Antonio Missions National Historical Park, a UNESCO World Heritage site. However, other missions pepper the way along the Camino Real, such as Mission Nuestra Señora del Espíritu Santo de Zúñiga in Goliad State Park.

Mission Nuestra Señora del Espíritu Santo de Zúñiga Photo by M. Gonzalez

This amazing spot along the Camino Real showcases the work of the CCC (Civilian Conservation Corp) which was instrumental in building, conserving, and restoring a variety of buildings in and around Texas. While Mission Espiritu Santo was established in the mid-1700’s, it was the fourth mission with the same name and after several relocations, found its final home in the area known as La Bahía, which later became known as Goliad, Texas. As time passed and the mission was no longer needed, Franciscan Priests finally closed this mission in 1830.

Between 1933-1942, the men of the CCC followed the plans to meticulously reconstruct the mission under the direction of a young architect by the name of Raiford Stripling. But before they would begin their project, they had to work on a “beginner” project in order to ensure that everyone understood the methods used to build the original mission in the 1700’s. In order to practice, they set about making a cottage for the park’s “superintendent to be”. In building this cottage, the men of the CCC could practice their brick making skills, along with learning to work with native materials, and making latilla ceilings (a traditional Southwestern design element consisting of peeled branches or small pieces of wood (latillas) laid between beams (vigas) to create a rustic, decorative ceiling). They learned how to hand carve large, ornate doors and forge iron hinges and once the cottage was finished, they understood what needed to be done to recreate the actual Mission de Espiritu Santo.

Latillas and Vigas Photo by M. Gonzalez

The Mission Nuestra Señora del Espíritu Santo de Zúñiga is the highlight of Goliad State Park and rightfully so. This mission, reconstructed on top of the its original 1749 foundation and wall remnants, is a testament to architecture and history as we make our way along the Camino Real de Los Tejas on the way to Louisiana.

If you’re interested in learning more about the Royal Road or following in the path of long ago Spanish settlers, look here for a FREE downloadable checklist of places to visit along the Camino Real de Los Tejas.

But there’s more to Goliad, Texas than meets the eye! We’re not done with our stop here just yet because in the midst of traveling this royal road through history, we also find ourselves in the heat of the battle for Texas independence! We’re going to look at, and talk about, flags you might not have known even existed! Stay with the Two Chicks for more adventures in Goliad, Texas!

MILE MARKER: A staircase, carved from two logs, could be placed in tight spaces that might have otherwise only had room for a ladder. Known as “Escaleras de Madera” or Staircases of Wood, they were also sometimes referred to as “Witches Staircases” as folklore denotes the stairs were designed to prevent witches from climbing them.

Escalera de Madera Photo by M. Gonzalez

HIKE IT!: There is a paved trail that runs through the park and connects the Presidio La Bahía to Goliad State Park and continues on towards downtown Goliad. Within the park, there is a trail that follows alongside the San Antonio River. It’s easy to park in the parking lot at the state park and walk the trail which is relatively flat and accessible. There are also hiking trails at the Medina Valley Natural Area. This area, just south of San Antonio, was part of the Camino Real de Los Tejas and there are some lovely trails to hike along the Medina River.

Where History and Culture Meet the Sky: Acoma Sky City Pueblo

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Acoma Mesa Photo by M. Gonzalez

Deep in the high desert of New Mexico, there sits a 367 foot high, sandstone mesa known as Acoma Rock. This is home to Acoma Sky City Pueblo. The ancient Puebloan tribes began to inhabit this mesa, and the surrounding area, as far back as 1150 AD. It is believed that the Puebloans originally inhabited the desert area in and around the mesa until eventually, they found a way to get to the top of the mesa by building crude steps, including hand holds and toe holds, which allowed people to climb up the side of the mesa. Once there, they more than likely realized that its high, isolated location made it virtually impossible to penetrate.

The ancient Puebloans were potters, artisans and architects. The pueblo was a village of roughly 500 three or four stories tall adobe houses. Dwellings were built on the mesa, not unlike those in Mesa Verde, except that the dwellings were not built into cliffs, but on them. People entered buildings via ladders placed through holes in the roof. If materials had to be brought up from the desert or surrounding area, people had to carry everything to construct the buildings up the cliffs on their backs.

Ladder to other worlds Photo by M. Gonzalez

During the times when the Spanish began their explorations and making their presence known, the Acoma people were able to generally refrain from contact due to their location atop the mesa. When the Spaniards finally made their way to the top of the mesa where the dwellings were located, initial contact was friendly, but over time, as Spanish demands for food and supplies increased, tensions rose. The Acoma people retaliated and months later, the Spanish responded in force, killing over 1500 people. Many survivors were mutilated and forced into slavery and eventually surrendered the pueblo to the Spanish. This lead to the rebuilding of the pueblo under Spanish rule.

San Estévan del Rey Mission Church of Acoma Photo by M. Gonzalez

Missionaries began their efforts to convert the people to Catholicism and to force them to give up their way of life. The Mission San Estevan del Rey church was built on the mesa in an effort to move the religious agenda forward. The church itself is an amazing structure, especially when you see it for what it is…a place where the people of Acoma could create a flux between Catholicism and their own culture. This is how the church is utilized today. The ceremonies of the people of Acoma are practiced inside the church and the church stands as a testament to the tenacity of the Acoma people and their culture. It is a large, beautiful building consisting of materials that had to be carried up the cliffs on the backs of the enslaved people forced to build it. The roof is held in place by 40-foot long Ponderosa pine vigas, or roof beams, originally hewn in the San Mateo Mountains, 30 miles away. The vigas were carried in by the enslaved people and were not allowed to touch the ground throughout the journey back to the mesa. There is a simple cemetery in front of the church and all the earth used to create that cemetery also had to be brought up the side of the mesa.

Acoma Pueblo Photo by M. Gonzalez

Acoma was designated a National Historic Landmark in 1960. In 1970, it was placed on the National Register of Historic Places and in 2007, the San Estévan del Rey Mission Church was designated a National Trust Historic Site. It is the only Native American site with that designation. The pueblo consists of approximately 250 dwellings that have held to tradition and currently have no electricity, sewer, or running water. The pueblo is largely uninhabited but there are some families who choose to live there year round. The pueblo is usually filled to capacity during feasts, dances, and community gatherings.

Cultural Center Photo by M. Gonzalez

Sky City Cultural Center is located approximately 50 miles west on I-40, then another 12 miles on State Route 23. Signs are easily visible once you exit the interstate. The cultural center is open Monday and Tuesday 9am- 4pm and Wednesday- Sunday 9am- 5pm. Monday & Tuesday tour times are 10:30am, 12:30pm, and 2:30pm. Wednesday- Sunday tours start every hour starting at 9:30am to 3:30pm. There are annual closures, and sometimes there are unannounced cultural events that require closure. Weather issues may affect tour times. You can check the website for more details or all 800-747-0181 between 9am to 5pm for specific questions prior to your visit. The price for a tour is approximately $30 at the time of this posting so it may have changed depending on when you’re reading this post. Entry fee includes your photo permit. Your photo permit allows you to take pictures of the pueblo except for inside the Church, within the cemetery courtyard, and during feast days. Permission must be obtained prior to photographing tribal members or their artwork.

Use of tripods, GoPros, video cameras, digital video cameras, binoculars and audio recording devices is prohibited. Commercial use of a photograph depicting Acoma imagery for personal gain (profit) is prohibited. For more information on guidelines, click here.

MILE MARKER: “Acoma is on the Zuni-Acoma Trail, an ancient footpath connecting the old Zuni and Acoma Pueblos. Once used by both native peoples and Spanish explorers, the seven and a half mile-long trail is enjoyed by hikers through New Mexico’s beautiful lava beds. The Zuni-Acoma Trail is part of the El Malpais National Monument, which the National Park Service manages.”~Information courtesy of NPS

Hiking down the mesa Photo by M. Gonzalez

HIKE IT!: There aren’t any specific trails on the mesa itself, but the guided tour takes about an hour and a half and I logged about one and half miles by the time the tour was finished. If you want to add a bit more adventure to your day, you will be given the option, towards the end of the tour, to take the steps down the side of the cliff and walk back to the Cultural Center. If you’re going there in the summer, be prepared for intense heat. Water and restrooms are only available at the visitor center so bring a hat, wear some sunscreen, and bring some water. Walking sticks help because the terrain in the pueblo is uneven.

Caves, Stars, & Ancient Pines: Great Basin National Park

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Photo by S. Resendez

We recently took you to a place called Big Thicket National Preserve that highlighted a wealth of biodiversity in Texas. Today, we’re going to talk about another place that also encompasses a diverse sample of nature that will take you underground into caves, through the desert, hiking through pine trees, into mountains, and traversing through the stars! Today, we’ll be talking about Great Basin National Park in Nevada!

The first people documented living in the Great Basin area were what archeologists call the Paleo-Indians. For over 12,000 years, these people were thought to be big game hunters with no permanent houses because they were nomadic and followed the animal herds. The next group to occupy this area were referred to as the Great Basin Desert Archaic. This group were hunter-gatherers who also followed animal herds but collected native plants but also learned how to use grinding stones to process seeds. They used their crafts to trade with other peoples.

These groups eventually led to the Fremont and Shoshone cultures, with the Shoshone still living in the area today. In addition to the Shoshone, the Ute, the Paiute, the Goshute, and the Washoe also inhabited this region. Small family groups hunted and subsisted on the land and its natural resources. The people were early hunters and gatherers who eventually learned to farm and fish. Everything they needed to survive and thrive was available to them in the Great Basin.

Photo by S. Resendez

Trappers, miners, and military expeditions found their way to Great Basin area in the mid-1800’s. Immigrants may have passed through the area as they made their way to California for the gold rush. Ranching was established soon after the gold migration. Mining expeditions also discovered gold and silver which resulted in mining operations inside the Great Basin and just outside the region. Ranching was established in the late 1800’s and continues today.

There are many things to do at Great Basin National Park. The ecosystem is diverse and plays host to 11 species of conifer trees, 73 species of mammals, 18 species of reptiles, 238 species of birds, 8 species of fish, and over 800 species of plants. The biodiversity ranges from desert valleys, mountain ranges, caves, a forest, an alpine environment, and even a glacier. And, if that weren’t enough, in 2016, Great Basin National Park was recognized as a a Gold Tier International Dark Sky Park by the International Dark Sky Association. This means the skies over Great Basin are some of the most pristine and clear night skies in the U.S. On a moonless, summer night, if the sky is clear, you may be able to see not just stars, but planets, satellites, meteors, the Milky Way, and the Andromeda Galaxy, all with the naked eye! Don’t forget, there’s also Lehman’s Cave to explore, hiking, and fishing…this park warrants a multi-day visit!

Mount Washington Bristlecone Courtesy of NPS Great Basin National Park–Photo by Kelly Carroll


Accessibility: The park currently features two trails that are built to ADA standards and are accessible with a standard wheelchair. For information on all trails, go to their hiking page and for more specific information on ALL accessible areas in the park, go to the park’s accessibility page.

Great Basin National Park’s grounds are open 24 hours a day, year round to hiking, stargazing, and camping. The park’s Visitors Center is located just north of the town of Baker on the west side of NV Highway 487 and is open every day between the hours of 8a–5p. In the summer, the Great Basin Visitor Center is open daily. The Lehman Caves Visitors Center is located 5.5 miles up from the town of Baker, NV from 8a–5p. In the summer, Lehman Caves Visitor Center is open extended hours. Hours may change seasonally for both visitors centers, so make sure you check on their webpage before heading out. The Plan Your Visit page does a great job of letting you know what to expect during each season. It’s worth reading through it if you plan to visit outside of the summer months. Interested in stargazing and astronomy? The website’s Astronomy page highlights their ranger programs for all visitors and the associated rules.

Lehmans Cave–Photo by S. Resendez

MILE MARKER: Great Basin National Park has some of the most interesting, naturally occurring resources in the U.S. For example: Some of the bristlecone pines here are over 4,000 years old. Also, there’s a hidden glacier here! Despite being in the Nevada desert, the park has a tiny glacier tucked into the shadow of Wheeler Peak, the southernmost glacier in the U.S.

HIKE IT!: There are numerous hiking trails in Great Basin. The hiking page on their website does a fantastic job of breaking down hikes by location and/or by ability. They also have a downloadable map site with all the trails topographical maps as well as advice about hiking in winter. It’s a great way to plan your hike and what you’ll need for it before you get out there.