Category Archives: Scenic

Taking a Deep Dive into Carlsbad Caverns: Stalagmites, Stalactites, Draperies, and Popcorn!

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Carlsbad Caverns Entrance Sign Photo courtesy of NPS

Imagine a time when, if you wanted to travel down into Carlsbad Caverns, instead of hiking or taking an elevator down, you had to load yourself up into a big, old, guano harvesting bucket and have people lower you down. Would you do it? At one time, lots of people did! People wanted to know what sort of world was beneath the surface of the earth. What lives down there? What does it look like? What is it like to be below the surface of the earth?!

Entering Carlsbad Caverns via guano mining bucket Photo courtesy of NPS

There was enough intrigue and curiosity about these caverns that in October of 1923, President Calvin Coolidge put out a proclamation denoting Carlsbad Caverns a National Monument. What is interesting about that proclamation is that even while recognizing Carlsbad as something that needed to be preserved, its size and depth were still not fully known. The proclamation itself uses phrases like, “extraordinary proportions” and “vast chambers of unknown character and dimensions” and even notes that there was, at that time, one entrance but also included “such other entrances as may be found”. Despite the unknown aspect, everyone recognized that it was in our nation’s best interest to protect this cave. In May of 1930, Carlsbad Caverns was fully established as a National Park.

Since then, we have learned that Carlsbad Caverns encompasses over 300 limestone caves in what was discovered to be a fossil reef that was “laid down by by an inland sea about 265 million years ago”. Above ground, there were signs that the land in that area had been utilized by Indigenous people, probably Mescalero Apaches, as early as 1200-1400 years ago. Spanish explorers showed up in the mid-1500’s and laid claim to the area. Eventually, as the Spaniards left, settlers worked their way through the Guadalupe Mountains. As time passed, travelers stopped in and around the general area and began to build ranches and farms. In 1898, a 16 year old farmhand by the name of Jim White entered the cave for the first time. Jim White eventually became the main guide to reporters, photographers, geologists, and geographers who wanted to learn more about the caverns. After passing away at the age of 63, for his exploration, guide services, and promotion of sharing the caverns with the public, he was unofficially honored with the title of “Mr. Carlsbad Caverns”.

Stalactites and Stalagmites…they still confuse me. Photo by S. Resendez

In 1925, the first trail into the cave was built, eliminating the need to be lowered in a guano bucket. In 1963, the bat flight amphitheater was built at the natural entrance and began allowing visitors to sit and watch the bats take flight.

Today, if you’d like to visit Carlsbad Caverns National Park, you will need to go to their official NPS website and look for information on how to make a timed reservation or call 877-444-6777. In addition to making your timed reservation, expect to pay your entrance fee and to bring your ID along with your timed pass when it’s time for your visit. Cavern entrance hours are from 9:30a to 2:30p with the last reservation time being 2:15p.

Bat Flight Amphitheater Photo courtesy Carlsbad Caverns NPS / Peter Jones

If you’re only interested in watching the bat flight, you won’t need a reservation and there is no fee but seating at the amphitheater is first come, first serve, so get there early if you want to make sure you’ll have a place to sit. The bat flight program is held every evening from April through October. Bat flight takes place at the Bat Flight Amphitheater, which is located at the Natural Entrance to Carlsbad Cavern. The start time for the program changes as the summer progresses and sunset times change so make sure you check on the website before you head out. Bat flight programs may also be canceled due to inclimate weather, so again, check ahead of your visit! **Insider Tip** The best bat viewing months are August and September when baby bats born earlier in the summer begin flying with the colony. Also, migrating bats from colonies further north often join in the flights. Are you a morning person? Early risers (approx. 4-6 a.m.) can watch for the bats as they re-enter the cavern! Bat entrances often come with spectacular dives from heights of hundreds of feet. Remember: To protect the bats, electronic devices are not allowed at the Bat Flight Program and surrounding area. Electronic devices include cameras of any kind, laptop computers, cell phones, iPads, iPods, tablets, and MP3 players.

Bat Flight from inside Natural Entrance Photo courtesy of Carlsbad Caverns NPS / Peter Jones

If you’ve never been to Carlsbad Caverns, the NPS website offers a webpage designed for first time visitors. Make sure you visit it for more detailed information about what to expect for your visit to the cave. Visitor hours are from 9a to 5p. Cave hours are from 9:30a to 2:30p. The last elevator coming OUT of the cavern is at 4:45p. If you decide you’d prefer to hike out, you must begin by 2:30 pm and plan to complete your hike out by 3:30 pm.

Accessibility: The Natural Entrance Trail is not Americans with Disabilities Act (ADA) compliant due to its steep grade (15%–20%) and therefore not accessible with wheelchairs; however, the Big Room Trail is accessible by elevator once you enter the underground rest area. This is a “one mile trail that is wet from dripping water and can be slippery, bumpy, uneven, and difficult to navigate. It is not Americans with Disabilities Act approved and should only be attempted with assistance. Maps defining the wheelchair accessible areas can be obtained in the visitor center. Due to steep grades and narrowness of the trail, barriers, and signs have been installed to note the portions that are inaccessible in a wheelchair.” There is an accessibility guide brochure available at the Visitor Center with more detailed information.

MILE MARKER: Did you know that Carlsbad Caverns was part of an ancient fossilized reef in a long-gone inland sea?! Instead of fish, coral, and sea sponges, you now have towering stalagmites, stalactites, and weird cave formations made from limestone that was once alive with marine life. You’re literally walking through the skeleton of a prehistoric ocean!!

HIKE IT!: If you decide to venture into the caverns and choose to walk down using the Big Room route instead of taking the elevator, you will have hike approximately 1.25 miles. The walk is relatively flat and will take you approximately 1.5 hours to (average) to walk. There is a shorter route available which is about .6 mile and will take approximately 45 minutes (average) to complete. Only clear water is allowed in the cavern. Also, hiking sticks are not allowed unless medically necessary. If you’re interested in a surface hike, there are trails in and around the area. Check here for back country trail information prior to making your plans as some of these trails have been subject to repair and renovation after a flood in 2022.

Lost Trails & Swamp Secrets: Conquer Big Thicket’s Wild Side

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Cypress Knees
National Park Service, Big Thicket National Preserve, Photo by Scott Sharaga

Big Thicket National Preserve was established in October of 1974 and was the first of the National Preserves in the United States. Big Thicket encompasses an area of approximately 113,000 acres and works its way through several counties and at least 6 waterways.

The Big Thicket is located near Beaumont, Texas and is considered part of the Piney Woods of East Texas. With a diverse range of plants and animals, it is often referred to as “America’s Ark” for its mind-blowing biodiversity. The Big Thicket serves as host for over 1,300 plant species, including 4 types of carnivorous plants! There are alligators, bobcats, armadillos, and over 300 bird species. As a matter of fact, Big Thicket is very popular during the bird migratory season. Swamps, pine forests, and sandhills comprise multiple ecosystems in one park. There are rare orchids and pitcher plants thriving in its boggy areas and 40 miles of hiking trails through diverse habitats across 9 diverse ecosystems.

Pine Savannah
National Park Service, Big Thicket National Preserve, Photo by Scott Sharaga

Here are the nine distinct ecological systems within the Big Thicket:

  • Pine Forests–Includes the longleaf pine and loblolly pine. Often maintained by controlled burns to mimic natural wildfires.
  • Hardwood Forests–Includes oak, hickory, sweetgum, and beech trees. Great for birdwatching and spotting woodland wildlife.
  • Swamps–Saturated lowlands with bald cypress and water tupelo. Many of these support hanging mosses and aquatic plants.
  • Baygalls–Waterlogged areas fed by groundwater, often at the base of slopes. Characterized by sweetbay, blackgum, and magnolia trees. This system houses rare amphibians, orchids, and carnivorous plants.
  • Sandhills–Dry, sandy ridges with scrub oaks and grasses.
  • Savannahs–These are open grassy areas dotted with scattered trees and maintained by fire. This area serves as home to pitcher plants and wildflowers. It also serves as a transitional zone between the forest and prairie.
  • Floodplains and Bottom Lands–Found along the Neches River and other waterways.
  • Bogs–Acidic wetlands with peaty soils. This area is famous for its carnivorous plants: pitcher plants, sundews, and bladderworts.
  • Riparian Corridors–Edges of streams and creeks, vital for aquatic and semi-aquatic species.
Pitcher Plants National Park Service, Big Thicket National Preserve, Photo by Chuck Hunt

As you can see, there is something for every type of hiker in the Big Thicket!

The Big Thicket Visitor Center is open 9:00 am to 5:00 pm, central time, 7 days a week. It is closed on Thanksgiving, December 25, and January 1. The roads, trails, and waterways of the preserve are open 24 hours. To spend a night in the preserve, you’ll need a free backcountry camping permit from the visitor center. Are you a hunter or trapper? Remember, Big Thicket’s hunting season runs from early October to the end of February. Hog trapping season runs from early February until the start of hunting season in October. Permits for hunting and trapping are available at the visitor center.

Big Thicket offers opportunities for camping, hiking, swimming, hunting, trapping, fishing, and paddling! Make sure you check in with the Visitor’s Center for the latest information on the preserve and any updates you may need to know before you head out.

Rainbow SwampNational Park Service, Big Thicket National Preserve, Photo by Scott Shiraga

Accessibility: The Visitor Center is wheelchair accessible as are bookstore, exhibits, and theater. The park film is open-captioned and audio described. Assistive Listening Devices (ALDs) are available at the front desk. For people with sensory issues, sensory kits are also available at the front desk. Also, Sundew Trail Inner Loop and the Pitcher Plant Trail are wheelchair accessible, as well as picnic tables and restrooms within the preserve.

MILE MARKER: Big Thicket was the first U.S. national preserve created specifically to protect a biological (not scenic or geological) resource.

HIKE IT!: Big Thicket National Preserve has over 30 miles of hiking trails. From short loops to long backcountry trails, hiking is one of the best ways to explore the preserve. And if you’re really interested in getting to know Big Thicket, check out our FREE downloadable Big Thicket Ecosystem Scavenger Hunt! checklist. This checklist can help you make your way through all the ecosystems and guide you on what to look for in each area.

Big Thicket Trails Map Courtesy of National Park Service

“Steam, Stories, and Strolls: Exploring Hot Springs National Park”

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Ahhhhh…do you like it steamy?! If so, have we got a place for you!

Photo by S. Resendez

Indigenous people have been quarrying stone from this area of Arkansas for thousands of years. After an exploration expedition in 1804, sent by President Thomas Jefferson, the hot springs were discovered and shortly afterwards, Europeans arrived and began utilizing the geothermal springs. There was talk that the spring waters had healing abilities. A town grew in the area of the springs that later became known as Hot Springs. The resulting bathing industry was built around the geothermal springs coming from the Hot Springs Mountain. This later became known as the “American Spa”.

In 1832, President Andrew Jackson signed legislation to preserve “…four sections of land including said (hot) springs, reserved for the future disposal of the United States (which) shall not be entered, located, or appropriated, for any other purpose whatsoever.” This proclamation meant that Hot Springs National Park was actually the very first, and now the oldest, national park in the current national park sites. Unfortunately, there was no accompanying legislation that prohibited building or settling in or around the area, which meant that people continued to build around and over the springs.

Ozark Bathhouse Photo by S. Resendez

Victorian bath houses built between 1880-1888 were considered large and luxurious, but by the early 1900’s, they were eventually replaced with fire-resistant brick and stucco. This was a precaution due to a severe fire in 1878 which decimated south and central downtown Hot Springs. In contrast to the previous structures, these newly built bath houses featured marble walls, billiard rooms, and gymnasiums. The culmination of changes to Bathhouse Row was completed when the Lamar Bathhouse opened its doors for business in 1923. These bathhouses are all still standing today.

After the Civil War reconstruction era, African Americans found that they could work at the bath houses but they still could not receive services from the bathhouses so they built and maintained many of their own bath houses. African American bathhouse attendants were an integral part of the bathing industry in Hot Springs. They organized to protect their pay and professions from exploitation. And in the early 1900’s, African American residents built the first bathhouse used exclusively by African Americans. For a more in depth look at how African Americans impacted the bathing industry at Hot Springs, visit the NPS link about Bathhouse Attendants at Hot Springs National Park.

The Grand Promenade Photo by S. Resendez

Take a short walk along the Grand Promenade. This walk runs behind the eight bathhouse buildings that were built between the years 1892-1923. Most of these buildings are open to the public with Fordyce functioning as the park’s visitor center. They can be accessed from Central Avenue. The Fordyce Bathhouse is open every day from 9:00-5:00pm, with the exception of Thanksgiving Day, Christmas Day, and New Years Day.

Today, there are only two bath houses where you are permitted to soak in the springs: the Buckstaff and the Quapaw. There are no entrance fees for the park but because this park encircles a city, you will probably have to pay for parking somewhere in the general area. This is one of the national parks that allows pets! Pets are welcome in the park and on the trails but not in the federal buildings. There is a cell phone tour available for Bathhouse Row so you can stop and listen along the way. If you decide to visit in the summer months, be prepared for the heat! Drink lots of water and wear a hat!

Accessibility: The Fordyce Visitor Center, Gulpha Gorge Campground, other park buildings, and all park bathrooms have functional ramps and are accessible to all persons. Bathhouse Row is paved and has a four to five foot wide walkway that creates a circular loop around the block. There are benches with backs along the Grand Promenade if you need to sit down and rest. There are two wheelchairs available to loan free of charge for use in the Fordyce Bathhouse Visitor Center and Museum. There are tactile exhibits along with self-guided tour books in braille as well as audio descriptions some exhibits and the park films. ASL interpreters are available for guided tours, but you must submit a request two weeks in advance. There are two accessible trails in the park. The Grand Promenade is a half-mile (one-way), fully paved trail with ramp access off Fountain Street and another behind the Fordyce Bathhouse. Whittington Park Trail is a 1.2 mile gravel trail that is a flat but unpaved loop.

MILE MARKER: The water in the hot springs is over 4000 years old! The thermal water that bubbles up in the park today fell as rain over 4,000 years ago. It percolates deep underground, gets heated by the earth’s geothermal energy, and reemerges through the Hot Springs Fault. So when you step into those bathhouses, you’re literally soaking in ancient rainwater!

HIKE IT!: There are over 20 miles of hiking trails in and around the Hot Springs National Park! Levels vary but there are plenty of options for anyone looking to get out of the city and into nature. Paper trail maps can be obtained at the Fordyce Bathhouse and Visitor Center and digital maps with real-time GPS location are available by downloading the service-wide NPS App. Make sure you check at the visitor center before starting your hike just in case there have been any updates or closures.

Hiking Around an Ancient Volcano: Devils Tower National Monument

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Photo by S. Resendez

Many people will look at this towering section of striated stone and think to themselves that it looks familiar, even if they’ve never been there. Yes, this is the site made famous in the Steven Spielberg 1977 movie, Close Encounters of the Third Kind. But before it became a focal point of a movie about contact with extraterrestrials, it was famous in its own right. The Devils Tower National Monument, also known as Bear Lodge, was dedicated by President Theodore Roosevelt as America’s first national monument in 1906.

Photo by S. Resendez

There are a multitude of theories surmising how the tower came to be. In reality, all theories agree that the tower did not start out as a tower. In fact, the structure began beneath the earth’s surface and was created from magma that came to be in its current state via erosion. We will probably never know which theory regarding the actual creation is correct due to the fact that the erosion essentially eliminated the evidence to substantiate any theory.

Photo by S. Resendez

Despite questions surrounding its creation, the physical tower is imposing. Devils Tower is 1,267 feet (386 m) tall and sits above the Belle Fourche River. It is the world’s largest example of columnar jointing. It is considered a sacred place for over 20 Native American tribes and ceremonies are still held there. As you walk on the trails, you may come across cloths or small bundles attached to the trees. These are Native American prayer cloths and represent the spiritual connection some tribes have with the Tower. Do not touch, disturb or remove the prayer cloths. Also, it is considered culturally insensitive to photograph these prayer cloths.

Park roads and trails are open 24 hours/day. Visitor Center/Library summer hours are from 9a to 6p. Hours change by season so if you want to see the visitor center, make sure you verify on the website before going. The park usually sees around 500,000 visitors per year; over 80% of whom come between Memorial Day and Labor Day (late May to early September), so plan accordingly.

Parking is very limited. The park often experiences maximum parking capacity for several hours every day throughout the summer (usually between 10a-3p). There is a map and a suggestion to park outside the park and hike into the visitor’s center, if you don’t want to deal with the parking issue.

Accessibility: The Visitor Center is wheelchair accessible and can accommodate wheelchairs up to 35 inches in width. Accessible restrooms are available. While the trail loop is paved, steep grades mean the trail is not recommended for wheelchair users.

Photo by S. Resendez

MILE MARKER: The word for devil/evil spirit is Wakansica. It can be translated as “bad god” or “evil spirit”. The Lakota word for black bear is Wahanksica. It is possible that the name Devils Tower, which is called “Bear Lodge” in Lakota, came about due to a mistranslation of “Wahanksica” for “Wakansica”. It is also possible that Colonel Richard Irving Dodge, a man who publicly advocated for the genocide of Native Americans, ascribed the name Devils Tower to this sacred mountain merely to offend and disrespect indigenous tribes. To find out more about the movement to restore the original Native American name of Devils Tower back to Bear Lodge, click here.

HIKE IT!: There are several hiking trails in and around the Devils Tower. The most popular is the Tower Trail but there are plenty of other hiking trails for hikers of different levels to enjoy. The NPS website for Devils Tower does a great job of breaking down the hiking trails based on how much time you think you plan on spending at the park. Make sure you check it out and plan your hike ahead of time!

West Texas Gems: Balmorhea and the Chihuahuan Desert Nature Center

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There are signs that in around 1849, Mescalero Apache watered their horses at the Mescalero Springs. Later, Mexican farmers dug canals by hand to irrigate their crops, which they later sold to people who lived in Fort Davis. The farmers called these springs the San Solomon Springs. In 1927, the springs were dredged and a canal was built to better utilize the flow of the water. Records show that the springs around Balmorhea have been in use for almost 11,000 years.

San Solomon Springs Motor Courts
Photo by S. Resendez

In 1934, the State Board of Texas acquired approximately 46 acres around the San Solomon Springs. The Civilian Conservation Corp (CCC) arrived at the springs in July 1934 and began work on building what would later become Balmorhea State Park. The CCC created the 1.3 acre pool around the springs. They also built the concession building, the bath houses, and the motel court using native limestone and hand hewn adobe bricks.

Balmorhea Swimming Pool Photo by S. Resendez

The San Solomon Springs is the largest in a series of 6 springs located in the Chihuahuan desert. The Balmorhea State Park Swimming Pool is the world’s largest spring-fed pool and often referred to as the crown jewel of the Texas State Parks System. The springs originally emptied into what is known as a ciénga or desert wetland. Construction of the swimming pool, back in 1934, resulted in the destruction of the natural springs which were rebuilt and fashioned into two man-made ciéngas.

Ciénega Photo by M. Gonzalez

There is an overlook by the RV section of the park for visitors to look for wildlife like deer, javelina, squirrels, turtles, lizards and dragonflies, which also utilize the springs. San Solomon Springs also serves as a stop for resident and migratory birds and is home to several rare and endangered species of snails and fish. San Solomon Springs is the largest spring in the Balmorhea area, and the habitat at Balmorhea State Park is very important for the con­ser­vation of these species.

Balmorhea State Park is located at 9207 TX-17, Toyahvale, TX 79786. Daily entrance fee for adults is $7 and free for children 12 and under. Park hours are from 8a to 7:30p or sunset (whichever comes first) and office hours are from 8a-5p. They often reach capacity and highly recommend reservations for both camping and day use. You can reserve passes online or by calling the customer service center before you visit. Check the park’s Facebook page for updates. Read their FAQ page for more detailed information about park and pool rules. Make sure you plan your visit before going!

Chihuahuan Desert Nature Center Entrance
Photo by S. Resendez

About 41 miles south and just outside of Fort Davis, Texas, sits the Chihuahuan Desert Nature Center. The Chihuahuan Desert Research Institute (CDRI) is a nonprofit organization that was established in 1973 and housed in Alpine, Texas. Its principal founders were science professors at Sul Ross State University, a university that the institute continues to work closely with today. Today, the CDRI is the Chihuahuan Desert Nature Center and is located on 507 acres in the foothills of the Davis Mountains.

Susan intently studying the locations of the mines! Photo by M. Gonzalez

The Nature Center is open year round. If you’re interested in exhibits about geology, history, and culture of the Chihuahuan desert, there is a mining exhibit detailing desert mining and the geological changes that have occurred in the Trans-Pecos of Texas over the last 2 billion years! A bird blind is available for birders, and there’s a cactus museum which houses over 200 species, sub-species, and varieties of cacti and succulents.

Photo by M. Gonzalez
Photo by M. Gonzalez
Photo by S. Resendez

If you don’t feel like hiking, there are botanical gardens which encompass a wildscape garden, a self-guided stroll through a Trans Pecos Natives garden, a pollinator garden trail, and a native grasses exhibit.

Check the website for Chihuahuan Desert Nature Center before heading out. The Center is located off of Hwy 118, 4 miles SE of Fort Davis at 43869 St. Hwy. 118, Their hours are Monday-Saturday, 9a-5p.

MILE MARKER: Would you believe that cactus can be found as far north as Canada?! Some species have evolved to withstand cold temperatures and dry conditions. Southern prairies and certain regions by the Great Lakes, provide habitats with enough sun, well-drained soil, and suitable temperatures for cacti to thrive.

HIKE IT!: There are lots of great hiking trails at the Chihuahuan Desert Nature Center. There are 5 trails ranging from .25 mile (scenic loop inside the botanical garden) to a 2.5 mile loop, which is considered a strenuous hike. Remember, you are hiking at an elevation of approximately 5,000 feet! Consider the weather and your own physical abilities. While the trails are mostly earthen, they may be uneven so take your hiking sticks, sunscreen, a good hat to cover your head and face, and plenty of water. After all, you’re desert hiking!

Trail Map for CDNC Photo courtesy of Chihuahuan Desert Nature Center

Why Padre Island National Seashore Should be on Your Bucket List

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Last week, we talked about places where history seems to be standing still. There are places in our country that inhabit their physical surroundings, virtually unchanged for hundreds, if not thousands, of years.

Padre Island National Seashore is one of those places. In the early 1800’s, Spain was the first to lay claim to the island, followed by Mexico, which owned the island from 1821 through 1836, at which point, the Republic of Texas claimed the land between the Nueces River and the Rio Grande. Finally, the United States wrested ownership of the island after acquiring the territory of the Republic of Texas in the mid 1800’s. Of course, the history books neglect to mention that prior to the various entities claiming ownership of the island, the indigenous people of the Karankawa were there first. The Karankawa were a nomadic group that traveled along the coastline of the barrier islands. Their traditional lands ran from Galveston Bay to the Bay of Corpus Christi. The Karankawa are first entered into the historical records in1528 when a Spanish ship wrecked on an island, near Galveston, that was inhabited by the Karankawa. Álvar Núñez Cabeza de Vaca, who was one of the shipwrecked sailors stranded on the islands, became one of the first people to provide a written history of the indigenous people and of Texas. In the mid 1700’s, there were several attempts by the Spaniards to “missionize” (code word for relocate and steal land from) the Karankawa but the fight to steal the lands lasted until the early 1800’s when military actions and smallpox decimated the population of the Karankawa. For more detailed history on the Karankawa, check out this post on the Texas State Historical Association’s website.

Padre Island has been known by many names over the years. It is currently known as Padre Island after Padre Nicolas Balli, a Spanish priest who settled there in 1804. Prior to being known as Padre Island, it was also known as La Isla Blanca (White Island) and Isla de los Malaguitas (Island of the Malaquites–a band of the Karankawa). Another interesting historical note about Padre Island is that from World War II to the1960’s, the island had a Navy bombing range on the northern tip of the island, which makes sense considering there is a naval base at nearby Corpus Christi.

Malaquite Beach Photo by M. Gonzalez
Goat’s Foot Morning Glory Photo courtesy of NPS

Padre Island was established as a National Park Service in 1962 and was dedicated by Lady Bird Johnson. It is one of ten national seashores under the National Park Service banner. Padre Island has the longest stretch of undeveloped barrier island in the world! Today, Padre Island National Seashore is a nature lover’s paradise! The National Seashore is home to hundreds of plants, animals, and birds. There are over 400 species of flowering plants. Padre Island and the surrounding area provides over “380 migratory, overwintering, and resident bird species (nearly half of all bird species documented in North America),” a habitat that includes prairies, dunes, tidal flats, and a hypersaline lagoon environment known as The Laguna Madre (the mother lagoon). Thirteen of these species are considered species of concern, threatened, or endangered. Birders come from all over the world to Padre Island National Seashore hoping to catch a glimpse of a rare or endangered bird.

Kemp’s ridley (Lepidochelys kempii) hatchlings making their way across the beach. Photo courtesy of NPS

And speaking of endangered, the Kemp’s ridley sea turtle, one of the most endangered sea turtle species in the world, nests on Padre Island’s shores from April to mid-July. This is one of the few places you can watch newly hatched babies get released into the wild! If you’re there between April and July, be on the lookout for red dots (reflective lollipop stakes) red flagging tape, or bright yellow flags with a turtle silhouette. This means there are turtle nests nearby and to be on the lookout! Also, if you spot a nest that hasn’t been marked, or if you see someone moving a reflector or tampering with a nest, do your part to save the turtles and report your sightings to 1-866-TURTLE5. Learn more about how you can help protect these turtles by visiting the NPS website about the Sea Turtles of Padre Island.

Padre Island National Seashore is open 24 hours a day, 365 days a year. If the entrance station is not open upon arrival, you are on the honor system and expected to pay the entrance fee on your way out. If you decide to camp there, you can go back to the station once it’s open and pay your camping fee then. The Visitor Center is open from 9a-5p every day of the year except for Thanksgiving and Christmas days. Beach accessible wheelchairs and walkers are available for use free of charge. They are available at the Visitor Center and are first come, first served.

MILE MARKER: Padre Island is the only place in Texas where 5 species of sea turtles exist:  Kemp’s ridley sea turtles, green sea turtles, loggerhead sea turtles, hawksbill sea turtles, and leatherback sea turtles. If you’re interested, check here to find out when sea turtle hatchling releases will be scheduled. People come from all over the world to watch hatchlings make their way across the beach and back into the ocean.

HIKE IT!: Grasslands Nature Trail is a .75 mile loop located near the park entrance. The trail is paved and easy to walk on. This trail allows for sweeping views of the dunes and the grasslands, as well as various wildflowers, birds, and other wildlife. Because this trail is paved, it is also wheelchair accessible. Be sure to take water with you. Use bug spray if needed and don’t feed the wildlife!

From Frontier Forts to Mountain Trails: Fort Davis National Historic Site and Davis Mountains State Park

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Imagine yourself in the middle of a desert, surrounded by nothing but harsh cliffs, scrub brush, cactus, and sandy caliche. There is a dusty road stretching out from east to west and there is no sign of civilization as far as the eye can see.

Okay, this isn’t the actual road but you get the idea. (This is a road in the same general area, though.)
Photo by M. Gonzalez

This is the Chihuahuan Desert. The largest desert in North America. It stretches from northern Mexico to the southwestern US, running through southwest Texas, New Mexico, and parts of Arizona. It covers approximately 200,000 square miles and while the average elevation is only 1000 feet above sea level, elevations can range from 3,500 to 5,000 feet.

In the mid-1800’s, if you wanted to travel from San Antonio, Texas to El Paso, Texas or further onto California to join the gold rush, this was the route you had to take. It was referred to as the Trans-Pecos Trail, specifically the San Antonio-El Paso road on the Chihuahua Trail.

Park Entrance
Photo by S. Resendez

In 1854, Fort Davis was established to create a point of protection for travelers, freighters, and mail carriers. The Eighth U.S. Infantry was stationed at Fort Davis until 1891. Fort Davis, named after Secretary of War, Jefferson Davis, was instrumental in protecting, defending, and developing the western frontier. The post was situated in a box canyon in the shadow of the Davis Mountains, (known then as the Limpia Mountains). With the onset of the Civil War and the secession of Texas, Fort Davis was abandoned and stayed deserted for five years.

The original post was built quickly and was poorly constructed. After the civil war, in 1867, Fort Davis, once again, became an active post. New buildings were constructed, eventually adding a guardhouse, barracks, officer’s quarters, a temporary hospital, and storerooms. Construction went on through the 1880’s, eventually housing up to 400 soldiers.

Housing at Fort Davis
Photo by M. Gonzalez

Commanches and Apaches continued to make the road hazardous travel for mail carriers and travelers, so soldiers spent the majority of their time patrolling the road and fighting off the Apache, as the Commanche had been defeated years earlier. The Apache, led by their leader, Victorio, were pushed into Mexico where, after eluding US troops for over a decade, they were finally captured and killed.

In June of 1891, Fort Davis was ordered to shut down and was abandoned, having outlived its usefulness. In 1961, the fort was authorized as a national historic site, a unit of the National Park Service.

Before we travel onto the Davis Mountains State Park, we would be remiss if we didn’t delve a tiny bit into what an integral part the Buffalo Soldiers played in the formation, maintenance, and safety of Fort Davis and the San Antonio-El Paso Road.

Following the Civil War, as Fort Davis was recommissioned, Troops from the Ninth U.S. Cavalry, the Buffalo Soldiers, were the first to report. They helped to reconstruct the fort, faced down conflicts with the Apache and the Comanche, and protected the mail, as well as travelers, on the San Antonio-El Paso road. The Buffalo Soldiers were integral in the day to day functions of Fort Davis. In addition to providing protection to travelers and escorting freight and mail, they repaired military telegraph lines and guarded water holes.

Even though the civil war was over, the Buffalo Soldiers still faced discrimination. Troops were segregated and rations and equipment were given to the white troops first, with the black troops receiving whatever was leftover. Despite all this, the Buffalo soldiers proved to be a force for keeping West Texas in check. They became known as the peacekeepers of the area and were highly revered by the Native Americans for their fierce fighting skills. It was the Native Americans who nicknamed these regiments, “Buffalo Soldiers”. The African-American soldiers accepted the name and adopted the Buffalo as a symbol of honor.

On a side note, in addition to keeping the peace in West Texas, active units of the Buffalo Soldiers served from 1866 until 1952. While remaining segregated, the Buffalo Soldiers served and fought in the Spanish-American War, protected the U.S. during the Mexican Revolution, World War I and World War II, as well as the Korean War.

Now, let’s make our way to the Davis Mountains State Park. It’s about a 10 minute drive from Fort Davis. Once you’re on the grounds, you will find yourself in an expansive state park of approximately 2,700 acres that reaches elevations of up to 6,000 feet! It may not seem like it, but this park is busy, especially beginning in the spring to the late summer. Camping is available but reservations are suggested, for camping AND day use, especially during their busy season.

Pullout view from Skyline Drive
Photo by M. Gonzalez

There are many things to see and do at Davis Mountains State Park. You can go camping, hiking, backpacking, mountain biking, and if you have one, you can bring your horse and hit the trails! There’s a scenic drive that winds its way up the mountains for some spectacular views. If you’re there at night, or almost anywhere in this general area, star gazing is at its best. (The McDonald Observatory is nearby so you could book a star party with some friends if you really want to take advantage of the dark sky!)

In addition to all of the nature and the views, there are a couple of shops available, the smaller shop being at the park entrance office and the larger shop located at the Indian Lodge which is further into the park.

Indian Lodge in Davis Mountains State Park Photo courtesy Texas Parks and Wildlife Department © 2006

If you plan on spending several days in and around this area of west Texas, why not check to see if there are any rooms available at the The Indian Lodge? The Lodge has been recently renovated and would be a wonderful place to stay while you explore the area.

As you make your way to the top of Skyline Drive, take a minute to stop at the Interpretive Center. This short stop is worth your time if you have any interest in the park’s wildlife, geology, or history. And if you’re a birder, you’re really going to love stopping here because they have an indoor bird blind which allows you to sit in air conditioned comfort while you watch the birds fly in and out. There are also has GPS Units available for loan if you plan on hiking in the park. Please say hi to Charlie if you go by the Interpretive Center. He’s a wealth of information!

The top of Skyline Drive Photo by M. Gonzalez

After your stop, continue towards the top of Skyline Drive, where you can park and take in the expansive views.

There is so much more to write about this park and its history but it’s just too much to cover. Take some time to visit their website. It’s got a wealth of information about everything the park has to offer. It also has alerts about things you may need to be aware of as you plan your trip. Make sure you check the website!

MILE MARKER: Cathay Williams was the first documented female buffalo soldier! She served from 1866-68. Since women were not allowed to serve then, Williams disguised herself as a man to enlist in the army. Read more about her history and more about the Buffalo Soldiers at the Bexar County Buffalo Soldiers Association.

HIKE IT!: There are several trails to choose from if you decide to hike while at Davis Mountains State Park. Check the website for details on length and difficulty. If you’re planning a visit to the Fort Davis National Historic Site, there’s a hiking path that connects both parks. It would be our recommendation, if you’re a less experienced hiker, especially if you’re hiking in higher elevations than you may be used to, that you study the details of this hike and make your decision based on your experience. While it is a relatively short hike (approximately 1 mile), you will be encountering an elevation drop on your way to Fort Davis and an elevation gain back to where you parked at the Davis Mountain State Park.

Remember, you’re in the mountains!! Most of these trails will incur elevation drops and elevation gains. You’re also in a desert, so hike wisely. Start your hikes early in the morning and take more water than you think you may need. Borrow a GPS unit from the Interpretive Center if it makes you feel more confident. Click here for an interactive map of the Davis Mountains State Park Trails. Be safe and have fun!

Rocky Mountain National Park: Trails, Wildlife, and Majestic Views

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“The mountains are calling and I must go.” – John Muir 

11,000 years ago, humans began to venture into the untamed wilderness we now know as Rocky Mountain National Park. Replete with an abundance of wild animals, flora, fauna, and glacier-sculpted mountains, the Ute came to settle in the meadows and the valleys, eventually moving on in the 1700’s. With the Louisiana Purchase of 1803, the United States acquired the land that we know now as the Rocky Mountain National Park. In the late 1850’s, the gold rush in and around Pike’s Peak brought prospectors to the area. Hunters and trappers also began to discover the abundance of wildlife in the rugged area and despite the harsh winters, ranchers, hunters, miners, and homesteaders began to settle.

As tourism built, a conservation movement was already underway. Now renowned naturalists, John Muir, Gifford Pinchot, and Teddy Roosevelt, were instrumental in establishing the Estes Park Protective and Improvement Association. Enos Mills, a naturalist and nature guide began promoting, in earnest, the creation of a national park. After years of exhaustive lobbying, lecturing, and letter writing by Mr. Mills, President Woodrow Wilson signed the Rocky Mountain National Park Act in 1915, despite opposition from miners and loggers in the area.

During the depression of the 1930’s, the CCC (Civilian Conservation Corp) helped the National Park Service to build Trail Ridge Road. This was an integral part of the park because unlike other national parks at that time, there was no rail service to take tourists to the park. Rocky Mountain National Park was primarily an “auto park”. This meant that roads were a necessity for tourists to be able to experience all the beauty the park had to offer.

Rocky Mountain National Park hosts approximately 4 million visitors a year, with a record high of 4.7 million back in 2020.

There are 3 main entrances: 

Grand Lake Entrance if you wish to go clockwise on Trail Ridge Road.  

Beaver Meadows The entrance to get you to Bear Lake and you can also reach Trail Ridge Rd. 

Fall River Entrance if you wish to go counter-clockwise on Trail Ridge Road and a good place to see bighorn sheep.

As of the date this post was written, timed entry reservations are not needed in the spring and fall seasons. After May 23rd, you MUST make a timed entry reservation and if you wish to include a visit to Bear Lake, that must be stipulated with your timed entry reservation. Make sure you go to the Rocky Mountain National Park website and check out the Plan Your Visit section. Always make sure you’re looking ahead and planning your trip. Entrance fees can vary with your age and passes can be purchased ahead of time. Cash is NOT accepted so plan to use your credit card. There are fee-free entrance days but if you choose to go on those days, be aware that the park entrances may have extra long lines for entry. Everything you need to know is on the website so decide what time of year you’d like to visit, plan ahead, then go! If you live in and around the Rocky Mountain National Park and visit often, you might consider purchasing a transponder for your vehicle. Transponders are for park visitors who visit the park frequently, especially before 9a and after 2p, outside of the timed entry window. Check the park information page for more information about transponders.

There are approximately 355 miles of hiking trails throughout the park. Some good, simple hikes to do – especially when you are coming up to this altitude and need to take it easy.

  • Sprague Lake .7 miles (loop) 
  • Bear Lake .7 miles (loop) 
  • Alberta Falls 1.6 miles (in and out) 

There are also many more moderate, difficult, and longer trails, too.  Be sure to check out the Park newspaper for all the trail information and always check with the rangers on trail conditions before you head out, especially if you’re hiking in the spring and the fall, when weather can quickly take a turn.

If you’re not interested in hiking and just want to bask in the glory of the beautiful Rocky Mountains, take the Trail Ridge Road up to Alpine Ridge and the Alpine Visitor Center. Did you know that Rocky Mountain National Park has many aspects of the boreal forest?  While not in the continuous range of the geographic boreal forest, scientists have noted that many trees and animals in the Rocky Mountain National Park are the same as what you would find in the boreal forest that stretches from Alaska to New Foundland, and through Russia.

Feeling a little adventurous? While Trail Ridge Road is the highest, continuous, paved road in the nation, the Old Fall River Road is a scenic road that reminds you to slow down and enjoy the scenery. Old Fall River Road is an 11 mile long, one-way, gravel road. The speed limit is 15 mph and will take you, approximately, one hour to complete. There are several switchbacks and if driving up a road with no guardrails makes you antsy, this road may not be for you. But it is a one-way road so you will not encounter opposing traffic. Most of the people who take this road are driving it because they’re in no hurry. There are wider spots for you to pull over if someone does want to pass you. If you have the time, I would suggest taking Old Fall River Road up to Alpine Ridge and taking the Trail Ridge Road back down. Adventure awaits!

Rocky Mountain National Park is open year round, 24 hours a day, 365 days a year. It is located at 1000 US Hwy 36
Estes Park, CO 80517

The Information Office is open year-round: 8:00 a.m. – 4:00 p.m. daily in summer; 8:00 a.m. – 4:00 p.m. Mondays – Fridays and 8:00 a.m. – 12:00 p.m. Saturdays – Sundays in winter. Recorded Trail Ridge Road status: (970) 586-1222.

Information on accessible trails can be found here and all-terrain wheelchairs can be reserved at no cost to you.  Just call the Estes Park Mountain Shop at 970-586-6548.

MILE MARKER: There were so many women trailblazers that contributed to the development and conservation of this park, they could have a blog post of their own. Homesteaders, authors, teachers, and conservationists, these women were an integral part of making Rocky Mountain National Park the jewel it is today. To read more about them, go here to the history of the park and learn more about these female trailblazers!

HIKE IT!: There are so many trails to hike at Rocky Mountain National Park, there really are too many to list. But, the website offers a wonderful page of suggested hikes broken down into lake hikes, waterfall hikes, and summit hikes. Further research will also take you to pages of hikes based on the time of year you will be visiting. And don’t forget, “Hike your own hike!”