Category Archives: Texas

Everything’s Bigger in Texas… Even the Fossils!: Waco Mammoth National Monument

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Imagine…you’re minding your own business, wandering around by the Bosque River, searching for fossils and arrowheads, when you come upon something sticking out of the ground and it looks like…a bone?!

This is what happened back in 1978 to Paul Barron and Eddie Bufkin. Lucky for us that these two guys had a pretty good idea of what they had found and had the presence of mind to excavate it and take it over to Baylor University’s Strecker Museum for further examination. Museum staff identified the object as a femur bone from a Columbian Mammoth and quickly went about organizing a team to begin excavating. Between 1978 and 1990, the dig unearthed the remains of 16 Columbian mammoths. They also found what appeared to be a nursery herd that may have died together in a single natural event. Between 1990 and 1997, six additional mammoths were excavated as well as the remains of a Western camel, an alligator, a dwarf antelope, and a giant tortoise, among other animals.

Photo by S. Resendez

There is conjecture on how these animals died and even though it remains a mystery, there are theories that allude to several successive floods which may have trapped and eventually drowned the animals in rapidly rising flood waters.

Photo by S. Resendez

In 2015, President Barack Obama signed the executive order that established Waco Mammoth National Monument, making it a part of the National Park System. The public is welcome anytime during regular operating hours, 9:00 am to 5:00 pm Central Time. Start your visit at the Welcome Center located at 6220 Steinbeck Bend Drive. Guided tours are conducted every 30 minutes, so just show up and join the fun, no reservation needed! Tours last from 45 minutes to one hour. A small tour fee applies. Tour guides will lead you from the Welcome Center, down a 300 yard paved path to the Dig Shelter where mammoth fossils are in situ (still in their original position within the bone bed). During your tour, you will learn about the Ice Age, how the fossils were discovered, and why this site is one of the most important paleontological finds in North America,”

MILE MARKER: Waco Mammoth National Monument marks the largest known concentration of Columbian mammoths that died in a single event. When paleontologists first started excavating the site in Waco, they noticed something strange: many of the mammoth skeletons were facing the same direction. That detail helped scientists piece together what probably happened thousands of years ago. During a sudden Ice Age flood, the herd likely tried to move together against the rushing water, just as modern elephants protect their young during danger. The current pushed them downstream into soft sediment, where they became trapped in deep mud. In other words, the way the bones are positioned appears to have captured the final moments of the herd trying to escape the flood together.

HIKE IT!: While there aren’t many long trails at this site, there are some short hiking trails around the actual dig site. If you combine all the shorter trails into one, you would probably get a one mile trail so you can get some steps in and appreciate the area surrounding the dig site. If you go in the summer, make sure you still prepare for warm weather hiking! At a minimum, at least make sure to take some water and sunscreen. For more details about the hikes, check out this link. If you have time after your visit and you’re interested in doing some more hiking, take the short drive down N. MLK, Jr. Drive to Cameron Park. There are a myriad of hiking trails in this park, including one called Jacob’s Ladder which consists of 88 steep, concrete steps. It is located within a wooded area, and climbs approximately 50 to 80 feet in elevation.

Leaves, Limestone, and Guadalupe River State Park

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Photo by S. Resendez

It’s a Hike & Feast!! That’s right, we’re headed for a hike at the Guadalupe River State Park, about 30 minutes northwest of San Antonio off Highway 46, west of 281 North.

This was the very first state park I ever visited when I first started camping. At the time of this first visit, I was a poor, case manager. Bachelor’s degree in hand, first professional job, still making peanuts. My housemate and I were looking for ways to have some fun that didn’t cost a lot of money. We decided to try our hand at camping so we splurged on a tent and somehow, I don’t really remember how, we found this park, made a reservation and spent a lovely weekend sleeping on the hard ground, grilling meats, hanging out at the river, and just generally, enjoying nature.

This isn’t my favorite state park but it does hold a special place in my heart because it was where I discovered camping. I’d been to Rocky Mountain National Park with my college roommate and her family before this camping trip, but they had a pop-up trailer and all I had to do was sit back and let my friend’s dad be in charge. The trip to Guadalupe River State Park was my first time setting up my own campsite, starting a campfire, and all the other camping experiences that came with it, including the midnight trips to the bathroom. But it was all good because that little bit of camping led to backpacking which led to hiking and here we are today! It’s a full circle for me.

Photo by M. Gonzalez

Guadalupe River State Park, as the name implies, sits smack dab on the Guadalupe River. The river here runs quiet and serene. The gentle flow makes it perfect for kids to get in and float down aways on a tube or raft, climb out, and do it all over again. The day use area is right on the river and you’d better believe it gets crowded in the summer. If you’re looking to camp here in the summer (as well as spring and fall if it’s warm enough), it’s going to be busy. It’s not the getaway you might be looking for if you’re looking for silence or quiet nature. But, if you’re looking for a place to hike some quiet, easy, and beautiful trails, you’ve come to the right place. Especially if you’re here in the fall and winter. Spring is also a magical time when the wildflowers are in bloom.

  • Photo by M. Gonzalez
  • Photo by M. Gonzalez
  • Photo by M. Gonzalez

Guadalupe River State Park is part of the area we’ve discussed in some of our other blogs and in our podcasts. Like Pedernales River State Park and our first Hike & Feast at Crownridge Canyon Natural Area, Guadalupe River State Park is an area comprised of limestone canyons that used to be a seabed. Dramatic canyon walls and rocky outcrops were formed when this region was covered by a shallow sea millions of years ago. If you look closely at the limestone layers, sometimes you can find fossiliferous limestone, better defined as fossils of seashells and organisms fossilized right into the limestone. Bonus if you’re a birder! This park sits at the crossroads of Hill Country and riparian ecosystems, making it an important stopover for migratory birds. Fall hikers often don’t realize they’re walking through habitat used by golden-cheeked warblers, painted buntings, and migrating raptors. Susan and I hiked the Painted Bunting Trail, named after the beautiful painted bunting bird (which we did not see while we were hiking, damn it).

This park has plenty of trails ranging from easy to challenging. Trail lengths range from 0.3 miles all the way to 3.1 miles. There are also river crossings if you’re looking to roll up your pants and get your feet wet. Terrain is varied and there are some trails that are short but steep, so choose wisely.

This is a great, little getaway right down the road from San Antonio. And there are plenty of places to feast after you finish up your hike. We made our way a few miles up the road to Spring Branch, Texas where we feasted on chicken fried steak at Antler Cafe. Delicious!

FEAST! Chicken Fried Steak at Antler Cafe in Spring Branch, Texas

MILE MARKER: Guadalupe River State Park protects one of the cleanest stretches of the Guadalupe River. Unlike the more heavily trafficked downstream sections (like New Braunfels), this stretch of the river is spring-fed and less developed, which helps keep the water unusually clear and ecologically healthy. It’s a quiet reason why the park feels so calm compared to other Guadalupe access points.

HIKE IT!: Make sure you check out the park’s website hiking page for links to their trail map but notice that there’s a secret hike on there! That’s right, there’s a secret hike at the connected Honey Creek State Natural Area. Access to this special area is allowed only by tour which is a 2 mile, ranger led tour, that only happens once a week. Click on the link to get to the Honey Creek website and sign up for that special hike there.

Flint, Frontier, and Falls: Pedernales State Park Through Time

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Photo by S. Resendez

There are signs that approximately 10,000-12,000 years ago, in the area we now recognize as the central Texas hill country, the Paleoindian people were utilizing the natural resources of the area to create tools for hunting megafauna such as bison and wooly mammoth. The grasslands of central Texas were the perfect environment for these animals. Add abundant water and flint, or as the Spaniards called it, pedernal, used to create those tools for hunting, and we can see why the area was such a draw for the indigenous people.

Fast forward to the 16th century, Spanish explorers and missionaries are making their foray inland towards central Texas. Lipan Apache are roaming the area and the Franciscans in charge of the missions in San Antonio are suggesting that a mission may need to be built in this part of Texas, as well. While that suggestion never comes to fruition, the influence of the Spaniards is cemented on the land. While in the area, the Spanish explorers begin to refer to the flowing water as the Pedernales River, due to the abundant amount of flint, or pedernal, in the riverbed.

After Texas became a state in 1845, small farming communities began to develop. and in the late 1800’s, the area in and around Pedernales Falls grew, but by the 1930’s, that same area began a decline. Lack of population growth, a depressed economy, and drought, probably helped to diminish and keep the local citizens to the bare minimum. The surrounding land was used for grazing until the original owner sold the land to Charles (C.A.) and Harriet Wheatley.

Photo by S. Resendez

The Wheatley’s named their new ranch, the Circle Bar Ranch and began improvement projects. They built a road that connected their ranch to the nearest county road and began building their home. They brought in purebred Hereford cattle and eventually, steer and goats. Although the Wheatley’s enjoyed hunting, they strongly believed that natural resources should be preserved and protected for the enjoyment of future generations. The Wheatley’s were prolific conservationists. Charles Wheatley helped to organize the National Wildlife Management Institute and was one of the founders of the Texas Fish and Game Commission. He was a friend of Governor Neff, who was responsible for creating the Texas State Parks system. Harriet Wheatley was also a lover of nature who enjoyed hunting and was active in the San Antonio Conservation Society, the Bexar County Girl Scouts, and the Blue Bird Auxiliary. She and Charles were both known to be expert fly fishermen and she even published a book entitled, Lady Angler: Fishing Hunting, and Camping in the Wilderness Areas of America.

© 2022 Larry D. Moore. Licensed under CC BY 4.0

In 1969, Harriet Wheatley sold the ranch to the state of Texas with her wish that “that it be conserved, and all of the wildlife be taken care of, and that it be enjoyed from generation to generation.” The park officially opened in 1971 as Pedernales Falls State Park. The park’s terrain typifies the Edwards Plateau, with woodlands, cedar brakes, grasslands, and lush riparian zones lining the Pedernales River.

The Pedernales Falls State Park is located at 2585 Park Road 6026, Johnson City, TX 78636. The park is open daily open daily and the office is open 8 a.m. to 4:30 p.m. The park’s phone number is (512) 389-8900.

Accessibility: Call ahead for specific information regarding building accessibility. They do have an all-terrain wheelchair available for use in the park. Contact the park to reserve it for your visit.

MILE MARKER: Beneath the falls and limestone shelves, the riverbed preserves fossilized tracks of ancient creatures. If you look closely in certain areas, you can spot impressions of prehistoric marine life that lived here when the Hill Country was covered by a shallow sea more than 100 million years ago.

HIKE IT!: Ten trails, from easy to challenging, are available for hiking, biking, and horseback riding. Trails vary in length from half mile to ten miles mean there are trails for every type of hiker! For more detailed information about the types of trails, check out the hiking trails page on the Pedernales State Park website.

Photo by S. Resendez