Lost Trails & Swamp Secrets: Conquer Big Thicket’s Wild Side

Cypress Knees
National Park Service, Big Thicket National Preserve, Photo by Scott Sharaga

Big Thicket National Preserve was established in October of 1974 and was the first of the National Preserves in the United States. Big Thicket encompasses an area of approximately 113,000 acres and works its way through several counties and at least 6 waterways.

The Big Thicket is located near Beaumont, Texas and is considered part of the Piney Woods of East Texas. With a diverse range of plants and animals, it is often referred to as “America’s Ark” for its mind-blowing biodiversity. The Big Thicket serves as host for over 1,300 plant species, including 4 types of carnivorous plants! There are alligators, bobcats, armadillos, and over 300 bird species. As a matter of fact, Big Thicket is very popular during the bird migratory season. Swamps, pine forests, and sandhills comprise multiple ecosystems in one park. There are rare orchids and pitcher plants thriving in its boggy areas and 40 miles of hiking trails through diverse habitats across 9 diverse ecosystems.

Pine Savannah
National Park Service, Big Thicket National Preserve, Photo by Scott Sharaga

Here are the nine distinct ecological systems within the Big Thicket:

  • Pine Forests–Includes the longleaf pine and loblolly pine. Often maintained by controlled burns to mimic natural wildfires.
  • Hardwood Forests–Includes oak, hickory, sweetgum, and beech trees. Great for birdwatching and spotting woodland wildlife.
  • Swamps–Saturated lowlands with bald cypress and water tupelo. Many of these support hanging mosses and aquatic plants.
  • Baygalls–Waterlogged areas fed by groundwater, often at the base of slopes. Characterized by sweetbay, blackgum, and magnolia trees. This system houses rare amphibians, orchids, and carnivorous plants.
  • Sandhills–Dry, sandy ridges with scrub oaks and grasses.
  • Savannahs–These are open grassy areas dotted with scattered trees and maintained by fire. This area serves as home to pitcher plants and wildflowers. It also serves as a transitional zone between the forest and prairie.
  • Floodplains and Bottom Lands–Found along the Neches River and other waterways.
  • Bogs–Acidic wetlands with peaty soils. This area is famous for its carnivorous plants: pitcher plants, sundews, and bladderworts.
  • Riparian Corridors–Edges of streams and creeks, vital for aquatic and semi-aquatic species.
Pitcher Plants National Park Service, Big Thicket National Preserve, Photo by Chuck Hunt

As you can see, there is something for every type of hiker in the Big Thicket!

The Big Thicket Visitor Center is open 9:00 am to 5:00 pm, central time, 7 days a week. It is closed on Thanksgiving, December 25, and January 1. The roads, trails, and waterways of the preserve are open 24 hours. To spend a night in the preserve, you’ll need a free backcountry camping permit from the visitor center. Are you a hunter or trapper? Remember, Big Thicket’s hunting season runs from early October to the end of February. Hog trapping season runs from early February until the start of hunting season in October. Permits for hunting and trapping are available at the visitor center.

Big Thicket offers opportunities for camping, hiking, swimming, hunting, trapping, fishing, and paddling! Make sure you check in with the Visitor’s Center for the latest information on the preserve and any updates you may need to know before you head out.

Rainbow SwampNational Park Service, Big Thicket National Preserve, Photo by Scott Shiraga

Accessibility: The Visitor Center is wheelchair accessible as are bookstore, exhibits, and theater. The park film is open-captioned and audio described. Assistive Listening Devices (ALDs) are available at the front desk. For people with sensory issues, sensory kits are also available at the front desk. Also, Sundew Trail Inner Loop and the Pitcher Plant Trail are wheelchair accessible, as well as picnic tables and restrooms within the preserve.

MILE MARKER: Big Thicket was the first U.S. national preserve created specifically to protect a biological (not scenic or geological) resource.

HIKE IT!: Big Thicket National Preserve has over 30 miles of hiking trails. From short loops to long backcountry trails, hiking is one of the best ways to explore the preserve. And if you’re really interested in getting to know Big Thicket, check out our FREE downloadable Big Thicket Ecosystem Scavenger Hunt! checklist. This checklist can help you make your way through all the ecosystems and guide you on what to look for in each area.

Big Thicket Trails Map Courtesy of National Park Service

West Texas Gems: Balmorhea and the Chihuahuan Desert Nature Center

There are signs that in around 1849, Mescalero Apache watered their horses at the Mescalero Springs. Later, Mexican farmers dug canals by hand to irrigate their crops, which they later sold to people who lived in Fort Davis. The farmers called these springs the San Solomon Springs. In 1927, the springs were dredged and a canal was built to better utilize the flow of the water. Records show that the springs around Balmorhea have been in use for almost 11,000 years.

San Solomon Springs Motor Courts
Photo by S. Resendez

In 1934, the State Board of Texas acquired approximately 46 acres around the San Solomon Springs. The Civilian Conservation Corp (CCC) arrived at the springs in July 1934 and began work on building what would later become Balmorhea State Park. The CCC created the 1.3 acre pool around the springs. They also built the concession building, the bath houses, and the motel court using native limestone and hand hewn adobe bricks.

Balmorhea Swimming Pool Photo by S. Resendez

The San Solomon Springs is the largest in a series of 6 springs located in the Chihuahuan desert. The Balmorhea State Park Swimming Pool is the world’s largest spring-fed pool and often referred to as the crown jewel of the Texas State Parks System. The springs originally emptied into what is known as a ciénga or desert wetland. Construction of the swimming pool, back in 1934, resulted in the destruction of the natural springs which were rebuilt and fashioned into two man-made ciéngas.

Ciénega Photo by M. Gonzalez

There is an overlook by the RV section of the park for visitors to look for wildlife like deer, javelina, squirrels, turtles, lizards and dragonflies, which also utilize the springs. San Solomon Springs also serves as a stop for resident and migratory birds and is home to several rare and endangered species of snails and fish. San Solomon Springs is the largest spring in the Balmorhea area, and the habitat at Balmorhea State Park is very important for the con­ser­vation of these species.

Balmorhea State Park is located at 9207 TX-17, Toyahvale, TX 79786. Daily entrance fee for adults is $7 and free for children 12 and under. Park hours are from 8a to 7:30p or sunset (whichever comes first) and office hours are from 8a-5p. They often reach capacity and highly recommend reservations for both camping and day use. You can reserve passes online or by calling the customer service center before you visit. Check the park’s Facebook page for updates. Read their FAQ page for more detailed information about park and pool rules. Make sure you plan your visit before going!

Chihuahuan Desert Nature Center Entrance
Photo by S. Resendez

About 41 miles south and just outside of Fort Davis, Texas, sits the Chihuahuan Desert Nature Center. The Chihuahuan Desert Research Institute (CDRI) is a nonprofit organization that was established in 1973 and housed in Alpine, Texas. Its principal founders were science professors at Sul Ross State University, a university that the institute continues to work closely with today. Today, the CDRI is the Chihuahuan Desert Nature Center and is located on 507 acres in the foothills of the Davis Mountains.

Susan intently studying the locations of the mines! Photo by M. Gonzalez

The Nature Center is open year round. If you’re interested in exhibits about geology, history, and culture of the Chihuahuan desert, there is a mining exhibit detailing desert mining and the geological changes that have occurred in the Trans-Pecos of Texas over the last 2 billion years! A bird blind is available for birders, and there’s a cactus museum which houses over 200 species, sub-species, and varieties of cacti and succulents.

If you don’t feel like hiking, there are botanical gardens which encompass a wildscape garden, a self-guided stroll through a Trans Pecos Natives garden, a pollinator garden trail, and a native grasses exhibit.

Check the website for Chihuahuan Desert Nature Center before heading out. The Center is located off of Hwy 118, 4 miles SE of Fort Davis at 43869 St. Hwy. 118, Their hours are Monday-Saturday, 9a-5p.

MILE MARKER: Would you believe that cactus can be found as far north as Canada?! Some species have evolved to withstand cold temperatures and dry conditions. Southern prairies and certain regions by the Great Lakes, provide habitats with enough sun, well-drained soil, and suitable temperatures for cacti to thrive.

HIKE IT!: There are lots of great hiking trails at the Chihuahuan Desert Nature Center. There are 5 trails ranging from .25 mile (scenic loop inside the botanical garden) to a 2.5 mile loop, which is considered a strenuous hike. Remember, you are hiking at an elevation of approximately 5,000 feet! Consider the weather and your own physical abilities. While the trails are mostly earthen, they may be uneven so take your hiking sticks, sunscreen, a good hat to cover your head and face, and plenty of water. After all, you’re desert hiking!

Trail Map for CDNC Photo courtesy of Chihuahuan Desert Nature Center