Why Padre Island National Seashore Should be on Your Bucket List

Last week, we talked about places where history seems to be standing still. There are places in our country that inhabit their physical surroundings, virtually unchanged for hundreds, if not thousands, of years.

Padre Island National Seashore is one of those places. In the early 1800’s, Spain was the first to lay claim to the island, followed by Mexico, which owned the island from 1821 through 1836, at which point, the Republic of Texas claimed the land between the Nueces River and the Rio Grande. Finally, the United States wrested ownership of the island after acquiring the territory of the Republic of Texas in the mid 1800’s. Of course, the history books neglect to mention that prior to the various entities claiming ownership of the island, the indigenous people of the Karankawa were there first. The Karankawa were a nomadic group that traveled along the coastline of the barrier islands. Their traditional lands ran from Galveston Bay to the Bay of Corpus Christi. The Karankawa are first entered into the historical records in1528 when a Spanish ship wrecked on an island, near Galveston, that was inhabited by the Karankawa. Álvar Núñez Cabeza de Vaca, who was one of the shipwrecked sailors stranded on the islands, became one of the first people to provide a written history of the indigenous people and of Texas. In the mid 1700’s, there were several attempts by the Spaniards to “missionize” (code word for relocate and steal land from) the Karankawa but the fight to steal the lands lasted until the early 1800’s when military actions and smallpox decimated the population of the Karankawa. For more detailed history on the Karankawa, check out this post on the Texas State Historical Association’s website.

Padre Island has been known by many names over the years. It is currently known as Padre Island after Padre Nicolas Balli, a Spanish priest who settled there in 1804. Prior to being known as Padre Island, it was also known as La Isla Blanca (White Island) and Isla de los Malaguitas (Island of the Malaquites–a band of the Karankawa). Another interesting historical note about Padre Island is that from World War II to the1960’s, the island had a Navy bombing range on the northern tip of the island, which makes sense considering there is a naval base at nearby Corpus Christi.

Malaquite Beach Photo by M. Gonzalez
Goat’s Foot Morning Glory Photo courtesy of NPS

Padre Island was established as a National Park Service in 1962 and was dedicated by Lady Bird Johnson. It is one of ten national seashores under the National Park Service banner. Padre Island has the longest stretch of undeveloped barrier island in the world! Today, Padre Island National Seashore is a nature lover’s paradise! The National Seashore is home to hundreds of plants, animals, and birds. There are over 400 species of flowering plants. Padre Island and the surrounding area provides over “380 migratory, overwintering, and resident bird species (nearly half of all bird species documented in North America),” a habitat that includes prairies, dunes, tidal flats, and a hypersaline lagoon environment known as The Laguna Madre (the mother lagoon). Thirteen of these species are considered species of concern, threatened, or endangered. Birders come from all over the world to Padre Island National Seashore hoping to catch a glimpse of a rare or endangered bird.

Kemp’s ridley (Lepidochelys kempii) hatchlings making their way across the beach. Photo courtesy of NPS

And speaking of endangered, the Kemp’s ridley sea turtle, one of the most endangered sea turtle species in the world, nests on Padre Island’s shores from April to mid-July. This is one of the few places you can watch newly hatched babies get released into the wild! If you’re there between April and July, be on the lookout for red dots (reflective lollipop stakes) red flagging tape, or bright yellow flags with a turtle silhouette. This means there are turtle nests nearby and to be on the lookout! Also, if you spot a nest that hasn’t been marked, or if you see someone moving a reflector or tampering with a nest, do your part to save the turtles and report your sightings to 1-866-TURTLE5. Learn more about how you can help protect these turtles by visiting the NPS website about the Sea Turtles of Padre Island.

Padre Island National Seashore is open 24 hours a day, 365 days a year. If the entrance station is not open upon arrival, you are on the honor system and expected to pay the entrance fee on your way out. If you decide to camp there, you can go back to the station once it’s open and pay your camping fee then. The Visitor Center is open from 9a-5p every day of the year except for Thanksgiving and Christmas days. Beach accessible wheelchairs and walkers are available for use free of charge. They are available at the Visitor Center and are first come, first served.

MILE MARKER: Padre Island is the only place in Texas where 5 species of sea turtles exist:  Kemp’s ridley sea turtles, green sea turtles, loggerhead sea turtles, hawksbill sea turtles, and leatherback sea turtles. If you’re interested, check here to find out when sea turtle hatchling releases will be scheduled. People come from all over the world to watch hatchlings make their way across the beach and back into the ocean.

HIKE IT!: Grasslands Nature Trail is a .75 mile loop located near the park entrance. The trail is paved and easy to walk on. This trail allows for sweeping views of the dunes and the grasslands, as well as various wildflowers, birds, and other wildlife. Because this trail is paved, it is also wheelchair accessible. Be sure to take water with you. Use bug spray if needed and don’t feed the wildlife!

Rocky Mountain National Park: Trails, Wildlife, and Majestic Views

“The mountains are calling and I must go.” – John Muir 

11,000 years ago, humans began to venture into the untamed wilderness we now know as Rocky Mountain National Park. Replete with an abundance of wild animals, flora, fauna, and glacier-sculpted mountains, the Ute came to settle in the meadows and the valleys, eventually moving on in the 1700’s. With the Louisiana Purchase of 1803, the United States acquired the land that we know now as the Rocky Mountain National Park. In the late 1850’s, the gold rush in and around Pike’s Peak brought prospectors to the area. Hunters and trappers also began to discover the abundance of wildlife in the rugged area and despite the harsh winters, ranchers, hunters, miners, and homesteaders began to settle.

As tourism built, a conservation movement was already underway. Now renowned naturalists, John Muir, Gifford Pinchot, and Teddy Roosevelt, were instrumental in establishing the Estes Park Protective and Improvement Association. Enos Mills, a naturalist and nature guide began promoting, in earnest, the creation of a national park. After years of exhaustive lobbying, lecturing, and letter writing by Mr. Mills, President Woodrow Wilson signed the Rocky Mountain National Park Act in 1915, despite opposition from miners and loggers in the area.

During the depression of the 1930’s, the CCC (Civilian Conservation Corp) helped the National Park Service to build Trail Ridge Road. This was an integral part of the park because unlike other national parks at that time, there was no rail service to take tourists to the park. Rocky Mountain National Park was primarily an “auto park”. This meant that roads were a necessity for tourists to be able to experience all the beauty the park had to offer.

Rocky Mountain National Park hosts approximately 4 million visitors a year, with a record high of 4.7 million back in 2020.

There are 3 main entrances: 

Grand Lake Entrance if you wish to go clockwise on Trail Ridge Road.  

Beaver Meadows The entrance to get you to Bear Lake and you can also reach Trail Ridge Rd. 

Fall River Entrance if you wish to go counter-clockwise on Trail Ridge Road and a good place to see bighorn sheep.

As of the date this post was written, timed entry reservations are not needed in the spring and fall seasons. After May 23rd, you MUST make a timed entry reservation and if you wish to include a visit to Bear Lake, that must be stipulated with your timed entry reservation. Make sure you go to the Rocky Mountain National Park website and check out the Plan Your Visit section. Always make sure you’re looking ahead and planning your trip. Entrance fees can vary with your age and passes can be purchased ahead of time. Cash is NOT accepted so plan to use your credit card. There are fee-free entrance days but if you choose to go on those days, be aware that the park entrances may have extra long lines for entry. Everything you need to know is on the website so decide what time of year you’d like to visit, plan ahead, then go! If you live in and around the Rocky Mountain National Park and visit often, you might consider purchasing a transponder for your vehicle. Transponders are for park visitors who visit the park frequently, especially before 9a and after 2p, outside of the timed entry window. Check the park information page for more information about transponders.

There are approximately 355 miles of hiking trails throughout the park. Some good, simple hikes to do – especially when you are coming up to this altitude and need to take it easy.

  • Sprague Lake .7 miles (loop) 
  • Bear Lake .7 miles (loop) 
  • Alberta Falls 1.6 miles (in and out) 

There are also many more moderate, difficult, and longer trails, too.  Be sure to check out the Park newspaper for all the trail information and always check with the rangers on trail conditions before you head out, especially if you’re hiking in the spring and the fall, when weather can quickly take a turn.

If you’re not interested in hiking and just want to bask in the glory of the beautiful Rocky Mountains, take the Trail Ridge Road up to Alpine Ridge and the Alpine Visitor Center. Did you know that Rocky Mountain National Park has many aspects of the boreal forest?  While not in the continuous range of the geographic boreal forest, scientists have noted that many trees and animals in the Rocky Mountain National Park are the same as what you would find in the boreal forest that stretches from Alaska to New Foundland, and through Russia.

Feeling a little adventurous? While Trail Ridge Road is the highest, continuous, paved road in the nation, the Old Fall River Road is a scenic road that reminds you to slow down and enjoy the scenery. Old Fall River Road is an 11 mile long, one-way, gravel road. The speed limit is 15 mph and will take you, approximately, one hour to complete. There are several switchbacks and if driving up a road with no guardrails makes you antsy, this road may not be for you. But it is a one-way road so you will not encounter opposing traffic. Most of the people who take this road are driving it because they’re in no hurry. There are wider spots for you to pull over if someone does want to pass you. If you have the time, I would suggest taking Old Fall River Road up to Alpine Ridge and taking the Trail Ridge Road back down. Adventure awaits!

Rocky Mountain National Park is open year round, 24 hours a day, 365 days a year. It is located at 1000 US Hwy 36
Estes Park, CO 80517

The Information Office is open year-round: 8:00 a.m. – 4:00 p.m. daily in summer; 8:00 a.m. – 4:00 p.m. Mondays – Fridays and 8:00 a.m. – 12:00 p.m. Saturdays – Sundays in winter. Recorded Trail Ridge Road status: (970) 586-1222.

Information on accessible trails can be found here and all-terrain wheelchairs can be reserved at no cost to you.  Just call the Estes Park Mountain Shop at 970-586-6548.

MILE MARKER: There were so many women trailblazers that contributed to the development and conservation of this park, they could have a blog post of their own. Homesteaders, authors, teachers, and conservationists, these women were an integral part of making Rocky Mountain National Park the jewel it is today. To read more about them, go here to the history of the park and learn more about these female trailblazers!